Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art: Asian: Central Asian (221)

Measuring 63 x 88 inches (160 x 224 cm), this hand-embroidered wedding shawl from the remote region of Indus Kohistan in northeast Pakistan is estimated to date to the mid or late 20th century. Worked in extremely fine cross stitch and satin stitch in silk thread in interlocking geometric motifs and embellished with beaded edges, a textile such as this may take up to six months to produce. This shawl is embroidered on a black cotton ground and is in excellent condition.

This old Uzbek napramach (also known as a mafrash among the Turkmen tribes) is from northern Afghanistan and is embroidered in silk thread on a grey plainweave cotton background. The medallion and geometric motifs reflect the Greek artistic legacy which influenced the urban weaving workshops of Bactria, a satrap of Alexander the Great's eastern empire. Similar motifs are found in ancient Greek vase designs and also in Chinese neolithic pottery. This textile measures 44 x 100 cm with some considerable fraying consistent with its age (mid 20th century). The embroidery technique is a very fine ladder stitch combined with herringbone stitch. The background lining is a blue printed fabric from Russia. Napramach is the Uzbek word for small bag - such nomadic textiles are traditionally utilized by nomadic women to store their personal belongings.

This boy's coat resembles the famous green chapan worn by Hamid Karzai, the current President of Afghanistan. These coats are worn in Central Asia including Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, etc. This chapan is woven in silk with a blue cotton shibori inside lining in plain weave, with the inside lapel in brown cotton corduroy. It measures 92.5 cm across the top, from sleeve end to sleeve end. The sleeve opening measures 21 cm. From the shoulder hem to the bottom hem the coat measures 61 cm. The underarm gussets measure 4 cm. Condition of this textile is excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

This textile is from Jaghori in central Afghanistan. It measures 25 x 26 centimeters and is in excellent condition. It is embroidered in cross stitch in silk thread and tightly worked into an overall composition that is very typical of the embroidery from this area. Estimated age: mid 20th century. Condition: Excellent.

This child's waistcoat is from Indus Kohistan, located in the province of Pakistan formerly known as the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP), recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. It is a superb piece, embroidered on black cotton fabric and embellished with coins, multicolored glass seed beads and pearly buttons. The vest measures 32 cm by 37 cm with the neck yoke measuring 11 cm. It is estimated to date to the middle to late 20th century. The embroidery is extremely fine, mainly cross and satin stitch in silk thread, with some back stitch forming diamond and chevron patterns. The dominant color is red, with emerald green, orange, yellow and royal blue. The triangular shape at the bottom of each beaded tassel on the front of the vest are called "doga" and have a long tradition of use as talismans in central Asia and other ancient cultures. The condition of the waistcoat is excellent with no missing beads and no damage whatsoever. Kohistan literally means "Hilly Country" and refers to the sub-6000 meter peaks enclosing this remote canyon as well as those peaks in upper Swat and lower Dir.

This is a vintage child's front from Paktia province in eastern Afghanistan. It measures 25 x 28 cm and is densely embroidered in silk thread in a tightly worked ladder stitch. The sides, shoulder and waist straps are executed in Bukhara stitching where the metallic threads are carefully laid in parallel and then meticulously fastened down with a cotton thread. This textile is estimated to date to the mid 20th century and is in excellent condition.

Worked in an intriguing combination of long and short stitch and ladder stitch on a fine cotton muslin ground, this Uzbek cushion cover from northern Afghanistan measures 39 x 78 cm and is dated to the mid 20th century. The central field of large rosettes and floral motifs, accented with leaves and smaller rosettes, is executed in silk thread in vivid primary colors in Bukhara couching to evoke the image of a garden in bloom. Condition is excellent.

This textile from Afghanistan measures 24 x 27 cm and is dated to the mid 20th century. The highlights of this textile are the four mirrors ("shisha") which are made of mirror glass and used as an amulet to ward off the evil eye. The embroidery is silk thread on a plum cotton ground, in straight stitch, ladder stitch and Holbein stitch, all combined in an effective way to make the overall composition. The Mangal are one of the largest and perhaps the most powerful and influential Pashtun tribes, residing in southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan. The name Mangal is derived from the Sanskrit name for the planet Mars. The Mangal are known for their independent nature, and have a long history of resisting British forces, central and provincial governments, Soviet army, and even fellow Pashtun Taliban militia. Condition of this textile is excellent. The embroidery is all made by hand, not by machine.

Straddling both sides of the Durand Line, the Mangal tribe are one of the more influential Pashtun tribes. This Mangal textile measures 24.6 x 28 cm and is in excellent condition. Curvilinear and geometric motifs are excecuted in straight stitch, Holbein stitch, and a tightly worked ladder stitch on a plum polyester ground. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The Mangal reside primarily in southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan. The name "Mangal" is derived from the Sanskrit name for the planet Mars. The Mangal are known for their independent nature and have a long history of resisting British forces, central and provincial governments, Soviet army, and even fellow Pashtun Taliban militia.

This Pashtun textile measures 35 x 35 cm and is embroidered in silk thread on a purple polyester ground. Two mirrors are sewn on as accents in each of the two 14-pointed stars. The embroidery technique is a tightly worked ladder stitch, typical of the embroidery of Katawaz. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

Straddling both sides of the Durand Line, the Mangal tribe are an influential Pashtun tribe. This Mangal child's dress front features the ubiquitous "gul-i-peron" discs incorporating blue glass beads and mirrors on a leather ground, a talisman that protects the young wearer against the evil eye. Satin stitch, herringbone stitch, a tightly worked ladder stitch and Bukhara stitching are the elements that make this composition highly effective. The textile measures 21 x 23 cm and is in good condition overall except for some fraying on the orange silk section on the front of the piece. The three discs measure 5.5 cm in diameter. Estimated age: mid 20th century. Silk and metallic thread on cotton.

This child's dress front from Gardez in Afghanistan measures 26 x 29.5 cm and is tightly embroidered in cross stitch. The geometric motifs are accentuated by the blue glass beads on each side of the textile, a prophylactic against the evil eye. The front side is embellished with metallic thread and Bukhara stitching, where the thread is taken along in intervals and fastened down by a minute cotton thread. This piece is in excellent condition and its estimated age is mid to late 20th century. It is in excellent condition.

Measuring 28.5 x 30 cm, this child's dress front from Afghanistan is in excellent condition. Mirrors are extensively used in Pashtun embroidery, because they reflect sunlight and protect the wearer from evil glances. The mica is attached to the fabric by means of minutely stitched mirror frameworks and encircling borders. This textile is impressive based on the extensive mirrorwork, beadwork, and meticulous herringbone stitch, with metallic thread in Bukhara couching. A textile like this may take 3 months to make. The reverse is a red velvet with silver embellishments. The piece is characterized by mirrored solar discs called "gul-e-peron"; while these have an ancient history as talismans, the silver cording on the shoulder hem and front is modern. This textile is dated to the mid 20th century.

Mirrors ("shisha") are extensively used in Afghan embroidery. The silvered mica or glass is attached to the fabric by means of stitched frameworks and encircling borders. By reflecting sunlight, mirrors protect the wearer from negative energies and evil glances. This child's dress front is densely embroidered in silk thread on a purple polyester ground, complemented in royal purple velvet on the reverse. The neckline and outside borders are fringed with dense yellow and orange beadwork with two silver amulets at the neckline. The embroidery technique is a very tightly worked ladder stitch, a hallmark of Pashtun embroidery. This textile is in excellent condition, and its estimated age is mid 20th century. It measures 31 x 32 cm.

This vintage Turkmen Tekke child's bib or collar is hand-embroidered in silk thread with cotton tassels. Shoulder to shoulder measures 19" and the front is 9 1/2" with a 3" fringe. The reverse is a printed cotton fabric and the embroidery technique features the traditional gul-i-badam ("almond flower") motif which is generally found only on Turkmen embroideries from Afghanistan. Condition is excellent and its estimated age is late 20th century.

This is a dowry purse from Afghanistan, measuring 19.5 cm x 29 when open, 16 x 19.5 when closed. The embroidery technique is silk thread in button stitch with herringbone stitch and long and short stitch. Embroidered on a silk background with mica mirrors, a few of them missing, the purse is otherwise in good condition for its age (mid to late 20th century).

A pair of vintage hand-embroidered make-up bags made by Pashtun nomads from Katawaz, located in Ghazni province, Afghanistan. Each bag is hand-embroidered in silk thread in a tight ladder stitch on a silk background, with some Bukhara stitching where the threads are held down with separate thread in a couching technique, and one bag featuring some small mirrorwork. One of the bags is lined with printed cotton fabric, probably from Russia. Both bags are estimated to date to the mid 20th century. See Bernard Dupaigne's book (Afghan Embroidery © 1996 Ferozsons p. 27) for similar make-up bags. Condition of each bag is excellent, with no flaws nor stains.

This vintage purse from Afghanistan is worked in a variation of ladder stitch and Bukhara couching to form repeating whorl and volute motifs. Silk and metallic thread are embroidered on a green polyester ground. The purse feature two inside pockets lined with red printed cotton, with the outer edges fringed with blue glass seed beads to protect against the evil eye. It measures 10.5 x 14 cm when closed, 13.8 x 25 cm when opened and dates to the mid or late 20th century.