Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art: Asian: Central Asian (221)

This is a lady's purse from Bamiyan, Afghanistan, finely embroidered in silk thread. The Hazara excel in making very intricate geometric design embroideries executed in brick stitch. This purse has also some chain stitch and couching stich ("basma") on the reverse, which features three separate pockets. Condition is good with some staining on the front consistent with its age (mid to late 20th century). The purse measures 10.9 x 23.6 cm.

Measuring 46 x 47 cm this textile forms the bodice of a Hazarajat nomad's shirt (kamiz). The embroidery is an intricate combination of satin stitch (or straight stitch) and an extremely finely worked ladder stitch worked by hand on an ivory linen background. Mirrors ("shisha") are strategically placed to ward off the evil spirits ("djinn"). Estimated age: early to mid 20th century. Condition is excellent.

This is a woman's shift ("kurta") from Swat Valley, Pakistan. It measures 125 cm from one sleeve extended to the other; the gusset measures 24 cm; the bust 57 cm. From top shoulder to bottom hem it measures 91 cm. The sleeve opening is 17 cm. The embroidery technique is pink and red floss silk on indigo-dyed and black cotton depicting geometric shapes typical of the embroidery of the Swat Valley. Condition of this textile is excellent. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

Measuring 13 1/2 x 19 1/4 inches this textile from Maqur district in Ghazni province is embroidered in silk thread on a fine linen background. The textile was intended to be made into a man or a woman's shirt. There is only one small brown stain, otherwise its condition is nearly perfect. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The embroidery technique is an extremely detailed ladder stitch.

This child's hat from the remote valleys of Indus Kohistan measures 15 cm in diameter and 45 cm in circumference. Embroidered in an extremely fine tent stitch (petit point) and ladder stitch in acrylic thread, it features a beaded tassel and a horned amulet made of the teeth of a musk deer, believed to repel evil spirits. The hat is estimated to date to the mid or late 20th century and is in excellent condition.

Living in the remote valleys along the upper Indus river, the women of Kohistan district in Pakistan may spend several long winter months making a dress ("jumlo") such as this one which is lavishly embroidered in tent stitch (petit point) and satin stitch in silk thread on a black cotton cloth ground. It features a full skirt with multiple inserted triangular panels (over 300) and is embellished with beads, buttons, metal trinkets and amulets. These kinds of trinkets are used extensively in Kohistani embroidery. In addition to providing decoration, they act as charms to avert evil from the wearer. This dress measures 98 x 210 cm with a sleeve opening of 36.8 cm. Estimated age: mid 20th century. Condition is excellent.

This Turkman Yomut's child's cap from Herat measures 17.8 cm in diameter and 49.5 cm in circumference, 5.5 cm in height. It is estimated to date to the mid 20th century and is in excellent condition. The embroidery technique is cotton thread in a tightly worked satin stitch on a light beige cotton ground.

This is a woman's shawl from Waziristan in deep magenta, yellow and black, with a woven cotton field on the edges and silk thread throughout. It measures 123 cm in width and 249.9 cm in length. Estimated age early to mid 20th century. Waziristan is entirely populated by ethnic Pashtuns and is named after the Wazir tribe. Condition is good, some staining to be expected from normal wear.

Embroidered in cotton and acrylic thread on a light blue cotton background with sequins and white bead fringing, this child's hat from Indus Kohistan ("Land of mountains") in Pakistan measures: circumference: 50 inches (127 cm); diameter: 6 inches (15.24 cm). Condition is excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The peak of the crown is achieved with wood gathered from the local forests, expertly woven to make the crown. Embroidery technique is a combination of cross stitch, tent stitch and satin stitch in both acrylic and cotton thread.

This is a child's cap made by Uzbeks living in northern Afghanistan, probably in Sar-i-pul province. It is in excellent condition and dates to the mid 20th century. Diameter is 7" (17.8 cm) and the circumference is 20 1/4" (51.4 cm). Silk thread and metallic braid on cotton.

This is a Hazara woman's hat from Bamiyan province in central Afghanistan. Circumference: 51.5 cm; Diameter: 18 cm. The embroidery technique is satin stitch in pink and yellow silk thread on a green polyester ground. Its condition is excellent given its age (mid 20th century). No spots, bleeding, etc.

Due to its strategic location on the ancient Silk Road, the area of Indus Kohistan on the Indus River has absorbed many influences from East and West. This young child's helmet ("khohl") from Indus Kohistan is topped with a beaded tassel, reminiscent of the Phrygian caps of antiquity. Such hats are everyday wear for the small children of the region, one of the most impoverished in all of Pakistan. This child's cap measures 17 inches in circumference and 6 1/2 inches in diameter. Buttons, white beads and metal ornaments adorn the cap, intended to ward off evil spirits ("djinn"). The embroidery is satin stitch and straight stitch in acrylic and metallic thread on black cotton. It is in excellent condition given its age (late 20th century). The inside and top is lined with printed fabric.

Uzbek hats such as this one are commonly worn in the northern areas of Afghanistan, particularly in and around Balkh and Mazar-i-Sharif. This child's hat is a quilted cotton with hand-embroidered silk thread in soft pink, rust, turquoise, salmon and teal. Areas of wear consistent with its age (mid-late 20th century). Circumference: 20 inches; diameter: 7 inches. Height: 2 1/4 inches.

This is a child's helmet ("khohl") from Kohistan, an isolated mountainous region of northern Pakistan located on the river Indus. Metal zippers, white beaded fringes, silver pendants and mirrored discs all serve to guard against the djinn, or evil spirits. The helmet has a high peaked crown supported by inserted sticks of wood, and topped with a beaded tassel. The helmet falls into a V-shape over the shoulders and back, measuring 62 cm from the tassel to the shawl base. Circumference: 42 cm. Diameter: 12.5 cm. The embroidery technique is cross stitch and a very fine tent stitch in both cotton and acrylic thread on black cotton, depicting traditional tree of life and chevron motifs. For a parallel item refer to Colours of the Indus by N. Askari and R. Crill page 124 Fig. 196. Estimated age: late 20th century. It is in excellent condition.

Measuring 5 x 17 inches (12.7 cm x 43.18 cm), this pair of embroidered bands from Afghanistan are dated to the late 20th century and are in good condition with one minor stain on one edge. Cobalt blue and vivid pink are the main colors executed in polyester thread in satin stitch.

This is a shepherd's wool coat from upper Chitral or Nuristan, depicting the branched "ram's horn" and tree of life designs reminiscent of the woollen garments and felts of central Asia. The mountainous area of Chitral adjoins the province of Nuristan in Afghanistan, a historical and geographic starting point for continuous trade routes into central Asia. The coat dates to either the mid or late 20th century and is in excellent condition given its age. The embroidery technique is chain stitch in woollen thread. It measures 35" (90 cm) across, and 32" (81 cm) in length. The sleeve openings are 10" (25 cm). The bust measures 20" (51 cm). There is an inner flap behind the front opening, and a gap under the arm instead of a gusset.

A Hazara woman's hat from Bamiyan province, Afghanistan, hand-embroidered in silk thread on a cotton ground depicting rosettes in yellow, green, blue, pink and turquoise. Long and short stitch and some herringbone stitch in silk thread. Diameter: 21 cm, circumference: 55.5 cm. The hat is in excellent condition. Estimated age mid 20th century.

This lovely child's hat was hand-embroidered by women of Kohistan, an area of lush green forests and valleys located on the river Indus. The embroidery technique is a fine cross stitch and brick stitch in acrylic thread with white beads and buttons. Diameter: 7.5 inches, circumference: 18 inches. Condition: Excellent. Estimated age: late 20th century. The hat size indicates it was made for an infant or toddler.