Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

This is a wedding shift from Indus Kohistan in Pakistan. Kohistan, meaning "land of mountains", has been a crossroads between Central, South and Southwestern Asia, absorbing artistic influences from the ancient Greeks and Scythians. Measuring 190 cm extended from sleeve to sleeve, the bust is 45 cm; arm opening: 34 cm; from shoulder to bottom hem: 104 cm. The embroidery technique is brick stitch and cross stich in a combination of acrylic and silk thread. Condition is excellent. For more information on these textiles please see Colours of the Indus by Nasreen Askari and Rosemary Crill © 1997 Merrell Holberton Publishers, pp. 132-133). Estimated age mid to late 20th century.

This is a woman's dress front from northern Afghanistan, circa mid 20th century. Embroidered in fine cross stitch on plainweave olive cotton, the field design device of interlocking crucifixes within diamonds is frequently seen on Shahsavan rugs and textiles. The top edge is embellished with Bukhara couching, which are metallic threads covering the entire surface area and fastened at regular intervals by small stitches to form a relief pattern. The back of the yoke is lined in mustard-colored cotton. Traditional Afghan dresses have a yoke under the neckline from which long panels of fabric flow. Sleeves are typically wide, and they wear matching cuffed pants (shalwar) underneath. The garments are decorated with embroidery at the yoke, the bottom of the sleeves, and the cuff of the pants. When a garment wears out, they remove the embroidered areas and re-use them in a new piece so that their progeny may share some of the original outfit. This panel measures 13x13 inches (33x33 cm).

Measuring 32.5 x 208 cm on black cotton, this woman's scarf from Hazara district in Pakistan is embroidered in satin stitch in floss silk thread. The curvilinear motifs are outlined with stitches of golden floss thread. The motifs are arranged into geometric compositions indicative of Central Asian influence. Condition is excellent and its estimated age is late 20th century.

Embroidered in vivid turquoise silk floss with a top stitch of golden silk floss, this woman's shawl ("phulkari") from Swat Valley measures 97 cm x 198 cm and is in excellent condition. The designs are stylized rosettes with densely embroidered borders and a medallion motif in the center. Black is the dominant color for the background of Swati embroideries, which share many motifs in common with the embroidery from Hazara district. The unique motifs on this wedding shawl suggest Chinese influence and similar stylized floral patterns are found on Tibetan scrolls. The curvilinear motifs and dense areas of stitchery are composed of the characteristic "phulkari" stitch which resembles a satin stitch but only on the front side. It is embroidered from the reverse side on a plainwoven coarse cloth known as "khaddar". This shawl is estimated to date to the late 20th century.

This is a woman's shawl from Waziristan in deep magenta, yellow and black, with a woven cotton field on the edges and silk thread throughout. It measures 123 cm in width and 249.9 cm in length. Estimated age early to mid 20th century. Waziristan is entirely populated by ethnic Pashtuns and is named after the Wazir tribe. Condition is good, some staining to be expected from normal wear.

A woman's shawl from Waziristan dated to the early 20th century. Woven black cotton field with silk fringes, and intricate silk embroidery throughout. It measures 49 inches in width, 103.5 inches in length (124.5 cm x 262.9 cm). Condition is excellent, just some minor discolorations to be expected from a textile of this age. Waziristan ("land of the Wazir") is a mountainous region near the Northwest of Pakistan, bordering Afghanistan and covering some 11,585 km (4,473 sq mi). The area is entirely populated by ethnic Pashtuns who speak Pashto. It is part of the Federally Administered Tribal Areas (FATA), considered to be outside the country's four provinces.

A woman's shift ("kurta") from Swat in vivid pink silk embroidery with green and purple accents on a black cotton background. This kurta has exceptionally fine cross-stitch embroidery at the sleeves, suggesting a link with Indus Kohistan. Indeed, it is not uncommon for embroidered panels for dresses from Indus Kohistan to be found in the markets of Swat (see Nasreen Askari, Colours of the Indus, © 1997). This kurta measures 73 inches across the top by 32 1/2 inches from the top hem to the bottom hem. The underarm gusset measures 3 1/4 x 4 1/2. This beautiful textile dates to the mid 20th century.

Abstract floral patterns combine with medallion motifs in shades of dark red and pink in this kameez from the Hazara district, North West Frontier Province (recently re-named Khyber Pakhtunkhwa). Silk floss on cotton (a handwoven coarse cloth called khaddar), the embroidery is in the characteristic phulkari stitch which resembles a satin stitch but only on the front side. Each cuff has an embroidered band in brick stitch. The tunic measures 37 1/2 x 68 inches while each sleeve measures 27 1/2 inches from the hem. Dated to the early or mid 20th century, its condition is very good except for some stains around the gussets and on the back.

This is a wedding shawl from Indus Kohistan in the province of Pakistan formerly known as NWFP (North-West Frontier Province). Comprised of two large rectangular panels which are densely embroidered in floss silk thread, it is embellished with colored sequins, brass mirrors and decorative metal trinkets, with corded and beaded tassels on the outer edges. The bottom panel is fringed with white and red glass beads. Diamond and chevron patterns adorn the top band, which is executed in minute cross stitch (petit point) and satin stitch in bright pink silk thread. The shawl measures 150 x 224.5 cm and is in good condition, with only a few brass mirrors missing here and there. The reverse is lined with a printed cotton cloth. Estimated age: mid to late 20th century.

The elaborate traditional costume of Kohistani women is comprised of a dress (jumlo) and shawl (chuprai) which are worn over trousers with finely embroidered cuffs. The shawl is constructed of two overlapping rectangular panels, hemmed with white beaded fringing. The two bottom corners are joined by turning up the lower edge, and the join is embellished with a triangular beaded motif which functions as an amulet, while adding weight to the bottom edge. Small metal mirrors and pendants dangle across the shawl, and an old zipper serves as a decorative edging at the bottom. The stitching is in silk floss on black cotton, a combination of tent stitch (also called petit point), cross stitch, and satin stitch which is very similar in style to the phulkari-type stitch of Swat valley. This shawl is estimated to date to the early 20th century and measures 63 x 88 inches (160 x 223.5 cm). The women of Indus Kohistan may spend half a year to produce a single wedding shawl.

Embroidered in cotton and acrylic thread on a light blue cotton background with sequins and white bead fringing, this child's hat from Indus Kohistan ("Land of mountains") in Pakistan measures: circumference: 50 inches (127 cm); diameter: 6 inches (15.24 cm). Condition is excellent. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The peak of the crown is achieved with wood gathered from the local forests, expertly woven to make the crown. Embroidery technique is a combination of cross stitch, tent stitch and satin stitch in both acrylic and cotton thread.

This is a shepherd's wool coat from upper Chitral or Nuristan, depicting the branched "ram's horn" and tree of life designs reminiscent of the woollen garments and felts of central Asia. The mountainous area of Chitral adjoins the province of Nuristan in Afghanistan, a historical and geographic starting point for continuous trade routes into central Asia. The coat dates to either the mid or late 20th century and is in excellent condition given its age. The embroidery technique is chain stitch in woollen thread. It measures 35" (90 cm) across, and 32" (81 cm) in length. The sleeve openings are 10" (25 cm). The bust measures 20" (51 cm). There is an inner flap behind the front opening, and a gap under the arm instead of a gusset.

This is a yurt ornament made by Lakai Uzbeks living in the northern region of Afghanistan. It is estimated to date to the mid to late 20th century and is in excellent condition. The embroidery is satin stitch in silk thread forming traditional geometric designs with a cotton paisley lining on the reverse. The textile measures 11.8 x 86.5 cm including the elaborate tassels and crown knots.

A hand-embroidered Uzbek curtain from northern Afghanistan, mid to late 20th century. Silk floss thread on green cotton in long and short stitch, this textile is fully reversible and either side may be used as the face. It measures 84 x 105 cm including the silk fringe. The central rosette is enclosed by borders and surrounded by curved and sinuous patterns in vivid contrasting color. Condition is very good but with some slight fading and a few small dark stains in one corner.