Catalog: Vintage Arts: Regional Art (266)

This handmade kilim from Maimana shows the medallion design and double interlock designs typical of the kilims from this area, inhabited by Uzbeks, Ersari Turkomen, and other tribal groups. It measures 87 x 127 cm. In excellent condition. Late 20th century. It is made of 100% sheep's wool.

A king-sized cotton duvet cover from Nepal, measuring 111 x 74½" inches (43.7 x 29.3 cm) in purple, red and green. The viúvavajra ("crossed vajra") and chevron motifs are depicted in wool thread in chain stitch. Condition: Excellent. The vajra (meaning diamond or thunderbolt) is believed to represent firmness of spirit and spiritual power and is displayed in the national emblem of Bhutan.

This is a dress panel made by Kuchi nomads from Afghanistan, with mirrorwork (shisha) and extensive beadwork. This textile represents the most common form of the amulet, the triangle. Decorative embroideries such as these are used as a protective element in central Asian cultures. The mirrors as shiny objects are incorporated into the embroidery and are believed to avert the evil eye, or reflect and hold its image thus absorbing the destructive powers. The beads trimming this textile also serve this purpose. Estimated age mid to late 20th century. 25 x 27 cm. Condition is good.

A Kuchi dress from Afghanistan from the second half of 20th century. The dress bodice has a front slit with button closure, and dense silk embroidery adorns the bodice, sleeve ends, and bottom hem. The embroidery is mostly satin stitch, with ladder stitch and herringbone stitch on black cotton. The embroidered sleeve bands and bottom embroidered band are 2 inches in width. The printed fabric is cotton, with small turquoise, yellow and red motifs on a black background. Condition of the dress is overall excellent, except for small sections where the embroidery has worn thin, mostly around the neckline, sleeve bands, and bottom hem band. Bodice: 11 3/4 x 15 1/2". Bust: 20" (armpit to armpit). Waist: 17". Hips: 32". Sleeve length (armpit to sleeve hem): 23". Shoulder to sleeve hem: 28 1/4". Shoulders: 4 1/4". Bodice front slit: 4". Sleeve opening: 19". Total length of dress: 53". Bottom hem of dress: 98".

A Labijar kilim from Afghanistan, made of sheep's wool and from the late 20th century. It measures 72 x 108 cm. This little rug shows the medallion design and double interlock designs typical of the kilims from this area, inhabited by Uzbeks, Ersari Turkomen, and other tribal groups.

Measuring 15 x 16.5 this embroidered purse from Afghanistan is in excellent condition and dates to the mid to late 20th century. Silk thread on cotton, in satin stich and brick stitch. White beads on corded tassels surround the edges. Condition is excellent. Estimated age late 20th century.

The painstaking embroidery technique on this vintage Pashtun purse from Afghanistan is called "pokhtaduzi", or Romanian couching, where the thread is taken across the surface for the desired length, then, bringing the needle back to the beginning, it is caught down at regular intervals by tiny stitches. The process is repeated until the entire surface area is covered, the small holding stitches being staggered from one thread to the next, giving a characteristic relief to the pattern. The metallic thread is framed by metallic braiding and blue and white seed beads, intended to protect the wearer from the jinn. Condition is overall good, showing wear consistent with its age (estimated mid 20th century). 12.5 x 25 cm when opened, 11 x 12.5 cm when closed.

A vibrant Lakai embroidered textile ("ilgitsh") from northern Afghanistan, measuring 56.9 cm x 58.4 cm including fringes. Romanian couching in silk thread on a deep red cotton ground, with bordering in cross stitch. Approximate age mid 20th century. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe of horse breeders who came to Afghanistan from the steppes after the Bolshevik Revolution in Russia to settle around the northern towns of Balkh and Kunduz.

Embroidered on a brown plainweave cotton linen, this wedding food cover (lali posh) was made by the Lakai Uzbek residing near Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Six suns edged with waves (symbolizing power) are worked in blanket stitch and chain stitch in bright, multicolored silk thread, surrounded by free-flowing, stylized floral motifs. The rasberry silk fringe border on all sides is crocheted and the reverse side of the textile is lined with two separate panels of printed fabric from Russia. Condition: Excellent. Measures 68 x 69 cm (including fringe). Circa mid to late 20th century. There is some fraying on the back lining, but the the textile is in otherwise perfect condition.

Measuring 56 x 88 cm, this horse headcover was hand-embroidered by Uzbeks of the Lakai tribe, well-known for their horsemanship. Each of the embroidered panels feature solar and horned designs, executed in Bukhara couching on red wool flannel, fringed with beaded silk tassels ending in small white beads, a typical feature in Central Asian embroidery. Condition is good but with a few small holes. Estimated age: mid 20th century.

This saye gosha (or segusha) shows the dynamic use of line and vivid color for which Uzbek Lakai embroidery is famous. Saye gosha are V-shaped hangings used to decorate piles of quilts while in storage during the day in the yurt. The Lakai are an Uzbek tribe who currently live around Kunduz in northern Afghanistan. Originally more widespread, they were also once found in what is now Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Silk thread in a combination of fine slanting blanket stitch and double chain stitch on a red plainweave cotton. The two panels are animated by whirling solar images edged with curvilinear and rounded wave-like motifs, densely arranged and tightly composed, but not overcrowded. The borders are embellished with twisted cotton fringes with beaded ends, a typical feature in Central Asian embroideries. This textile measures 9 1/2 inches x 28 inches on the right panel, 9 1/2 inches x 38 inches on the left panel. The back is lined in black cotton. Condition is excellent but for one inconspicuous stain on the right panel (on the magenta oval motif). Estimated age: early to mid 20th century.

An antique Lakai Uzbek V-shaped panel (saye gosha/segusha) from northern Afghanistan, early to mid 20th century. The surface is embroidered in polychrome solar and volute motifs in silk thread on a faded red cotton ground, with a star medallion at the apex, edged with metallic couching and crocheted wool fringe. Each side measures 162.6 x 61 cm including the fringe. In very good condition, appropriate for its age and origin.

A man's woolen coat from the Pashtun Mangal tribe. Made from a locally handwoven patti cloth, these coats are decorated with woolen embroidery, in branching patterns. The archaic, stylized designs are reminiscent of the woolen garments and felts from Central Asia, which is not surprising given the continuous trade linking Afghanistan with Central Asia. The Mangal tribe straddle both sides of the Pakistan/Afghanistan border and live mostly in the provinces of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Khost and Paktya. This coat is ornamented with gold couching, braided embroidery in long and short stitch, chain stitch, and herringbone stitch. Circa mid 20th century. Condition of this textile is very good, with some wear on the sleeves. This textile measures 36" x 64 5/8" (91.44 x 164.15 cm) including the sleeves.

Straddling both sides of the Durand Line, the Mangal tribe are one of the more influential Pashtun tribes. This Mangal textile measures 24.6 x 28 cm and is in excellent condition. Curvilinear and geometric motifs are excecuted in straight stitch, Holbein stitch, and a tightly worked ladder stitch on a plum polyester ground. Estimated age: mid 20th century. The Mangal reside primarily in southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan. The name "Mangal" is derived from the Sanskrit name for the planet Mars. The Mangal are known for their independent nature and have a long history of resisting British forces, central and provincial governments, Soviet army, and even fellow Pashtun Taliban militia.

This textile from Afghanistan measures 24 x 27 cm and is dated to the mid 20th century. The highlights of this textile are the four mirrors ("shisha") which are made of mirror glass and used as an amulet to ward off the evil eye. The embroidery is silk thread on a plum cotton ground, in straight stitch, ladder stitch and Holbein stitch, all combined in an effective way to make the overall composition. The Mangal are one of the largest and perhaps the most powerful and influential Pashtun tribes, residing in southeastern Paktia and adjacent Khost provinces of Afghanistan. The name Mangal is derived from the Sanskrit name for the planet Mars. The Mangal are known for their independent nature, and have a long history of resisting British forces, central and provincial governments, Soviet army, and even fellow Pashtun Taliban militia. Condition of this textile is excellent. The embroidery is all made by hand, not by machine.

Measuring 15.5 x 16 inches (39.4 x 40.6 cm), this textile from Kandahar, Afghanistan is embroidered in silk thread embroidery on a fine silk ground which is stitched onto a fine cotton linen panel. Depicting eight pointed star and rosette motifs in exquisitely fine satin stitching in counted-thread technique, the sheen of the silk is worked so that the light catches it in different settings, a characteristic feature of the embroidery ("khamak") of Kandahar. This textile is dated to the early to mid 20th century. Condition is almost perfect with only two stains on one side.

A man's wrist band from Afghanistan, hand-embroidered by Lakai Uzbek women, probably from Kunduz province. Circa 1970. Solid embroidery in cross stitch with hooked motifs. These motifs, their colors and repetition, are common in the embroideries of Tajikistan and Sukhanderia in southern Uzbekistan. The embroidery features buttons and beaded tassles on both ends. The tassles are bound together by metallic thread. The Lakai Uzbek cross stitch is rather larger than in the Hazara embroideries. In this piece a hooked motif is embroidered in different colors and repeated in five separate panels to highlight the contrast in color. It is in excellent condition and measures 2¾ x 34 inches when measured from end to end with the braided string and tassles; without the tassles and string it measures 18½ inches in length.

This embroidered shirt panel is typical of the traditional embroidery of Kandahar ("khamak") in its limited range of colors and its depiction of geometric motifs of traditional Islamic art. Silk thread in extremely delicate satin stitch in counted-thread technique on a fine silk background which has been stitched to a cotton linen. It measures 38 x 43.5 cm and is dated to the early 20th century. Condition excellent, only two inconspicuous stains on one side.