Catalog: Archives: Estate Jewelry (467)

The signatures of Chato Castillo and Ingrid's combine on this exquisite Mexican Deco silver fan pendant necklace - neither is a a common occurrence and both are synonymous with imaginative design and high quality. Chato is reported to have been the driving adventurous force behind most of the Los Castillo innovations - the revival of ancient techniques, the experimentation with materials - while Ingrid's still remains among the elusive early Taxco retailers...

When it comes to impressive pendant necklaces with a distinct "ethnic" twist, the Los Ballesteros signature is what one has to look for within the field of vintage Mexican silver. Their designs are amazing not just for their proportions but also for their quality of materials and impeccable craftsmanship. This sunburst example with color-change sapphire (synthetic corundum) hanging off the hand-made sterling chain of the same vintage I have had several times in the past but I never tire of it...

Based on a Salvador Teran design, the bracelet at hand is a great match to the Taller Taxco necklace also currently available in my inventory (please look for item no 1229490). Pre-Colombian motifs with a mod twist in their interpretation make for a visually stimulating and definitely different piece...

Vintage Sigi Pineda Mexican silver "peas in a pod" bracelet, this is one of my favorite designs by the Taxco modernist. Wrought in sterling silver the links have been darkened with "metallic black" niello that sets the graduated sphere appliques off in the most dramatic way. The beads have actually been riveted onto the links - not just simply soldered on - and their brushed finish contrasts beautifully with the links' smooth surface...

Working out of San Miguel de Allende, Carmen Beckmann is one of the “second generation” (if I may be allowed the term here) designer / silversmiths who contributed to Mexico’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance. In her work, Beckmann is often inspired by ancient Maya and Aztec motifs to which she adds her unique modernist “twist” - quite successfully in my opinion at least...

Massive Los Ballesteros Mexican silver pendant, layered, adorned with beading and oxidation, in a convex shape that pushes the huge citrine centering it out at you - this is one of the most impressive pendants of theirs I have seen. For me it betrays a distinct Spanish Colonial influence as it based on the ornate order medals royals around the world like to bestow on select individuals to show favor and appreciation...

Demanding and difficult, onix negro (black onyx) is a technique by which the classic art of stone inlay is reversed; instead of setting stone within a silver frame, it is now silver shapes that are placed in a flat piece of black onyx. Devised by the Los Castillo at the beginning of the 1950s, onix negro was practiced by a few other maestros as well with results that are definitely different and can be quite impressive...

Inspired by ancient Aztec and Maya glyphs and stamps this Mexican silver necklace by Gerardo Lopez combines figural overlay with niello to create an eye-catching example of Taxco's "archeological" style. Birds of prey, warriors, the divine monkey Ozomahtli and, of course, Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent, are represented in the trapezoid links, the actual figures glistening against the sterling backdrop's metallic black...

Housing a polished obsidian cabochon with warm, shimmering golden depths this vintage Mexican silver bracelet bears the signature of Sigi Pineda, one of Taxco’s foremost modernist designers. A prolific creator, Sigi was at his best when he worked within the confines of minimalism - the bracelet presented here, a hinged bangle, is just such an example...

Carved in translucent amethyst the “mask” adorning the Piedra y Plata silver ring presented here bespeaks Felipe Martinez’s talent as a sculptor. His jewelry, always combining sterling with the most amazing stones, showcases some of the best lapidary work in the world of vintage Mexican jewelry and his “masks”, I consider some of the most evocative, spiritual examples in the field...

Inspired by ancient Inca motifs this 1950s Industria Peruana silver and 18k yellow gold necklace is a classic example of the best jewelry that came out of Peru around the middle of the 20th c.. Hand-hammered sterling links feature figural appliques on their slightly concave faces, the same combination of silver and gold also used to form the circular connectors...

One of Spratling's early designs, the "ring with three cascabeles" possesses the primordial charm of ambitious beginnings that are nonetheless steeped in the creativity of ancient cultures. I believe the motif is the same here as that in the tortoise shell and silver "snake" box - the more I look at it, the more I think of writhing serpents with spotted skins. The cascabeles are simply the melodious cherry that tops an already superb piece...

How often does one find an Enrique Ledesma starburst pendant? And if one does come upon an example, how often is it of such astonishing proportions? Let me answer my own question then - not often at all! Yet here I am presenting you with one and it is spectacular. Having a huge flat-cut color-change sapphire (synthetic corundum) at its heart , the pendant shoots out eight elegant sterling rays, their slender bodies curving away from the center to end in flattened drop shapes...

One of the best Taxco modernists Enrique Ledesma was successful not only as a jewelry designer but also as a mosaicist and a lapidary. Two of his favorite materials, sterling silver and stone, are combined here in a classic for the maestro design. Minimalist, quite geometric with clean, easy to follow lines, the necklace's only luxury seems to be the saturated, rich green of the chrysocolla (I think!) trapezoids...

Perfectly carved and housed in a monumental sterling silver setting, this vintage Los Ballesteros “mask” ring is definitely a statement-making piece...

Classic Fred Davis Mexican Deco silver and turquoise bracelet in a design that is considered an iconic creation for the renowned designer, especially in this combination of materials. A row of repousse florets with stone hearts comfortably hugs the wrist and conforms to its movements freely. The turquoise cabs have developed an interesting variation of hues over the years which, in combination for the warmly glowing patina, adds character and a certain "life experience" to the bracelet. Need I s...

An absolutely stunning table-cut citrine adorns this massive Carmen Beckmann Mexican silver ring. The gem, its color traveling from refreshing lemon to saturated yellow as the light changes, is lifted above the finger in a terraced setting with geometric cut-outs. Though this design was created in the 1960s-70s ( I was fortunate enough to have sold an example from that period a while ago), the piece at hand dates in the 1980s yet the quality of materials and exquisite design Beckmann jewelry is ...

It is not easy to stumble upon a vintage Los Ballesteros carved "mask" ring but when one does find an example, what a feast it is! There is nothing "timid" about this piece. The philosophy here is big, bold and beautiful and I believe that the Los Ballesteros workshop accomplished all this monumentality in the most amazing, masterful, and eye-pleasing way. The "mask" is here carved out of a dark green agate, I believe, with grayish white specs in it. Closed eyes, a slightly curved nose and full ...