Catalog: Archives: Estate Jewelry (468)

Inspired by ancient Aztec and Maya glyphs and stamps this Mexican silver necklace by Gerardo Lopez combines figural overlay with niello to create an eye-catching example of Taxco's "archeological" style. Birds of prey, warriors, the divine monkey Ozomahtli and, of course, Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent, are represented in the trapezoid links, the actual figures glistening against the sterling backdrop's metallic black...

Demanding and difficult, onix negro (black onyx) is a technique by which the classic art of stone inlay is reversed; instead of setting stone within a silver frame, it is now silver shapes that are placed in a flat piece of black onyx. Devised by the Los Castillo at the beginning of the 1950s, onix negro was practiced by a few other maestros as well with results that are definitely different and can be quite impressive...

Vintage Sigi Pineda Mexican silver "peas in a pod" bracelet, this is one of my favorite designs by the Taxco modernist. Wrought in sterling silver the links have been darkened with "metallic black" niello that sets the graduated sphere appliques off in the most dramatic way. The beads have actually been riveted onto the links - not just simply soldered on - and their brushed finish contrasts beautifully with the links' smooth surface...

From the earlier part of Matilde Poulat's magically creative career this set of silver and red coral earrings is characterized by her textured wirework, beading and bezel-set stones. Almost understated when compared to Matl's usually bold designs, it reminds me of inverted question marks. I love the classic elegance and the way the dark patina of the silver makes the saturated color of the cabs pop. The earrings are 1 1/2" tall by 1" wide and weigh 11.5 grams (for the set)...

Based on a Salvador Teran design, the bracelet at hand is a great match to the Taller Taxco necklace also currently available in my inventory (please look for item no 1229490). Pre-Colombian motifs with a mod twist in their interpretation make for a visually stimulating and definitely different piece...

When it comes to impressive pendant necklaces with a distinct "ethnic" twist, the Los Ballesteros signature is what one has to look for within the field of vintage Mexican silver. Their designs are amazing not just for their proportions but also for their quality of materials and impeccable craftsmanship. This sunburst example with color-change sapphire (synthetic corundum) hanging off the hand-made sterling chain of the same vintage I have had several times in the past but I never tire of it...

Fur pins are not a common find in the field of Mexican silver jewelry collecting yet during my years of buying and selling I have bumped upon a few examples and I can tell you that the best bore the Los Castillo signature - like the one I am presenting here. The "koi fish" is a signature design for the famous workshop yet we all know it was created by Margot de Taxco when she was still married to Antonio Castillo...

The signatures of Chato Castillo and Ingrid's combine on this exquisite Mexican Deco silver fan pendant necklace - neither is a a common occurrence and both are synonymous with imaginative design and high quality. Chato is reported to have been the driving adventurous force behind most of the Los Castillo innovations - the revival of ancient techniques, the experimentation with materials - while Ingrid's still remains among the elusive early Taxco retailers...

Architectural in a dramatic yet also minimalist way, this Hans Hansen sterling silver ring does not come up very often. Set on a cylindrical post its tambour-shaped face holds a polished round black onyx disk within it. The transition from sterling to stone is seamless, the surfaces of the two materials "married" to each other in the most perfect way while the tambour's sides are reflected in the simple wide shank...

Bangle bracelets, be they hinged or solid, are a big love of mine but I am doubly thrilled to be presenting here a set of three signed by the Los Castillo! How often does one see this form with this signature, truly? Not often enough is the answer and the rarity enhances the innate quality of the pieces...

Good early Mexican Deco silver repousse jewelry is becoming harder to find - I don't know if it's because there weren't that many to begin with (quite often repoussage from that period seems a little clumsy, the technique needing additional experimenting with) or that at some point their popularity grew so much that they were "scooped up" from the market. Whatever the case, I am thrilled to be presenting this fantastic cuff bracelet with two saturated purple amethyst cabs here...

Early and quite hard to find, this Los Castillo silver repousse bracelet is comprised of lusciously sculpted, wide feather links. A dream to wear, I love it for the scrolled edges of each feather and the way the links alternate their orientation adding drama to the design. The bracelet measures a wearable 7" long and it is 1 1/2" wide. It weighs 52.9 grams and has a safety chain as well...

Vintage silver and tiger's eye necklace by Erika Hult de Corral, the Taxco modernist designer with studies in Paris and apprenticeships in the workshops of both Ledesma and Sigi Pineda. I love Ric's jewelry for the fluidity of lines and her unique way of marrying sterling with hard stones. The necklace at hand has an inner circumference of 15 3/4" (clasped) with its width varying between 3/4" at center front and 1/8" at its narrowest, next to the clasp...

Perfect for medium to smaller wrists, this modernist Erika Hult de Corral bracelet was made in Taxco in the 1960s-70s. One of the few female contributors to Mexico's 20th c...

One of my favorite - and at the same time classic - Enrique Ledesma designs the bracelet at hand combines sterling silver and golden sheen obsidian in the maestro's characteristic, perfectly seamless way. Ledesma experimented with various stones creating the specific bracelet but I think this year is meant to be an "obsidian year" for me and I will say that I love this version. Difficult to carve since it is a volcanic form of glass, obsidian has to be worked by skilled, masterful lapidaries to ...

A piece from the opening years of the Los Castillo taller this is a simply stunning bracelet! Despite the almost minimalist design, the cuff is breath-taking with its huge black onyx cab that centers its face and glistens whenever the light hits it. The sterling frame has thick twist-rope accents while big fleur-de-lis motifs flank the stone. With an inner circumference of 6 3/4" (including the 15/16" gap), the bracelet is relatively adjustable but I would strongly advise to have your jeweler d...

Dating around the middle of Matilde Poulat's career, this sterling repousse brooch exhibits the tell-tale texturing and beading that characterizes her silver-work and is adorned with bezel-set turquoise and red coral. Poulat's inspiration quite often originated in the natural environment with doves, owls, flowers, fish and, in our case, a sea horse featured in her jewelry. Evocative of the tranquility of deep sea waters, this little creature will put a smile on your face every day of the week. M...

Eagle 22, one of the assay marks used by Fred Davis, is stamped on the bracelet at hand and its design combined with the fact that Davis was not at all meticulous at signing his pieces makes me believe that we might as well be dealing here with one of this creations. The carved amethyst "masks" are rendered in the most minimalist manner, a classic Abraham Paz / Fred Davis characteristic. For me, they also bring to mind ancient Cycladic art yet they were made thousands of years later in a totally...