Catalog: Archives: Estate Jewelry (467)

In the last couple of years I found myself drawn closer and closer to the jewelry created by the Los Ballesteros workshop. I am especially attracted to their “mask” pieces in all the forms they can be found as well as to what I like to call their “hinged bangle” bracelets. I consider both kinds the absolute jewel in the taller’s creative crown and it seems that there is always something new and different to discover...

Last year I was lucky to find three examples of jewelry by Celia Harms, a talented designer who lived and worked in Vera Cruz in the 1950s and '60s. The Etruscan style sterling vermeil cross pin / pendant necklace I am presenting is the last of that trove and a very classy duo as well. I am very particular with vermeil - I don't really like it unless it is old and has mellowed almost to the point of ... extinction yet here it has an understated matte finish that exudes a calm warmth...

One of the few female designers of Mexico’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance that we know of, Erika Hult de Corral excelled in the creation of slick abstract and brutalist jewelry. She started creating her own work in Taxco’s “middle period” and continued being active in the post-1980 years as well. Big, bold and beautiful, the result of the artist’s few yet perfectly placed brushstrokes, the dove-shaped pendant at hand conveys that precious sense of elegant, unimpeded motion...

A most unusual Mexican Deco necklace, this Mexico City figural example falls under several categories. Its links are inlaid with azur-malachite in the Los Castillo "mozaico azteca" style but it also belongs in the "mask" jewelry sub-genre thanks to the repousse portrait adorning the central station. And even though this is not a work from Taxco and its maker is, for all intents and purposes, an "unsung" contributor to Mexico's 20th c...

One of the Mexico City maestros active in the first decades of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Abraham Tobias was a contemporary of Matilde Poulat's and he created jewelry in the so-called Mexico City style repousse. Many of his pieces are based on Matl originals and admittedly the boldness and quality of his repoussage is very very close to, if not often en par with, Matilde's own...

The name of Plateria Cortes, a Taxco retail store is often found on jewelry signed by Enrique Ledesma and this is the case with the modernist sterling silver and green stone necklace at hand. This type of curved trapezoid links embellished with inlay is a signature design for the maestro yet here there are two sections of stone in each station which is a welcome variation that does not come up as often as the typical single segment...

Following in the tradition of Mexico City “jeweled” jewelry closely associated with Matilde Poulat, this Mexican Deco silver and amethyst cross pendant necklace is not signed for maker yet its rich patina, beautiful stones and exceptional chain more than compensate for the absence. I could hardly exaggerate how rare it is to find a repousse chain of this beauty, let alone one adorned with richly colored amethyst cabs...

Generously long, with a hefty chain and an unusual stylized floral design, this early Mexican Deco necklace combines silver and copper in a playful yet still bold way. The graduated tulip links bring to my mind classic representations of the flower in Ottoman art - the blooms are slender and tall as opposed to the hybrids we are used today which are shorter and rounder...

Stupendously beautiful, a vintage Deco Mexican silver bracelet that is not for the faint of heart! This is one of the most impressive, visually stunning examples of Mexico's early 20th c. jewelry I have seen. Its tall panels are profusely decorated with wirework and beading and set with two yummy, big amethyst cabochons each. Early as its pin-style clasp reveals and absolutely breath-taking it measures 7 3/4" in inner circumference (clasped) by 2 1/2" wide and weighs a whopping 179.6 grams...

Referred to as the “shells” or sometimes even “snails” bracelet, Margot de Taxco’s des. 5104 is a series of fleshy, perfectly swirling repousse links that feel so comfortable around the wrist, you might take them as an extension of your body. The example at hand vibrates with that warm light only well-aged, well-loved silver acquires and the thick sterling sheet used to craft the bracelet has allowed it to mature without burdening it with the scars and blemishes of age...

Ultimately modernist in its approach to personal adornment, with Enrique Ledesma's signature perfection in the marriage of silver and stone, a necklace and earrings set with triangular links of sterling framing richly colored azur-malachite. Honesty of materials, craftsmanship of the highest level and immaculate finishing create a superb example of Taxco lapidary and silversmithing prowess. The necklace measures 15 3/4" long (wearable) by 5/8" wide while the clip-back earrings are 7/8" by 3/4"...

Bearing a combination of hallmarks that dates it around 1939 this William Spratling ring is wrought in high purity .980 silver and has developed the most amazing patina during its long and - I am sure - happy life. According to Goddard, Spratling used to refer to this design as the "crowned pyramid", an appellation that makes more sense if one looks at the matching bracelet from above as it lays on a flat surface...

Casting of very good quality, a huge amethyst gemstone and a long chain with figural links combine in this Italian Peruzzi style pendant necklace to create one of those pieces that collectors covet and all of us dream about...

One of Margot de Taxco’s most romantic, delicately elegant yet still eye-catching and beautifully made necklaces, the “foliate bow” is characterized by generous micro-beading accented by just the right touch of oxidation. The chain’s riveted links rest perfectly around the neck while the intricately woven central station brings to mind earlier, Old World “lovers’ knot” jewelry. Measuring 16 1/2” long (wearable) with its central station being 2 1/2” wide with a drop of 1” an...

Made in the very late 1940s or in the opening years of the 1950s at the latest, this Marcel Boucher sterling silver necklace is a Mexican piece from the renowned designer’s “Parisina” line. Parisina pieces are not easy to find - Boucher had them made in Mexico for a few years around WWII because the war effort had put restrictions in the availability and use of silver. Yet this specific design, I have never encountered before . Its floral links are nicely cast and oxidized and I love the s...

Generously long and definitely mod, this Erika Hult de Corral necklace is a minimalist little treasure! Not only does it wear like a dream - for me it is the epitome of "less-is-more", except for the luscious greens that make the polished stone centering it a treat for the eye. This is a pre-1980 example of her work and quite versatile since you can easily wear it with that classy black dress or have it casually adorn your favorite worn T-shirt. The necklace measures 21 1/2" long and its width v...

A prolific maestro and one of Taxco’s best modernists, Sigi Pineda enjoyed a long, fruitful career and his jewelry is loved and sought after by aficionados of vintage Mexican jewelry. Made of sterling silver in an asymmetrical design, this hinged bangle bracelet plays with geometry and juxtaposes the shiny surface of the metal with the deep blackness of the stone. Eye-catching, beautifully made, very very mod - and a version of Sigi’s hinged bracelets that doesn’t come up very often. With...

Rare Mexican Deco silver repousse figural necklace, its five graduated links featuring what I believe to be a neo-Aztec interpretation of Cinteotl, one of the three goddesses of corn and fertility. Bare-breasted and kneeling in a corn field, holding in her hands an ear of maize and adorned with earrings and a pendant necklace, it is in fact two different figures that we are looking at; while the bodies and what surrounds them is the same, the jewelry and the faces themselves are different. I hav...