Catalog: Estate Jewelry (314)

Delicate and quite romantic with their Spanish Colonial bows and a half-hidden heart motif this set of Los Castillo earrings is elegant and nostalgic at the same time. Crisp finishing and a beautifully glowing patina complete the "package" - I will let the photos say the rest while I provide the specifics: 1 3/8" long by 1 1/8" wide, weighing 11.2 grams (for the set). Fully signed with maker's name as well as "TAXCO" and Eagle 15 assay mark...

I am a big fan of Carmen Beckmann’s Etruscan style jewelry - her domed Etruscan ring is a foundational piece in my collection and I enjoy it thoroughly. There is something about the way the wire-work and tiny florets with their bead centers oxidize with time that creates an air of warm, comfortable luxury around them that gets me every time. I could easily see the dangle earrings at hand worn by dignified Roman matrons leisurely enjoying their honeyed wine...

One of the most talented, innovative maestros of Mexico’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Jose Luis Flores created some amazing designs that were sold not only under his own name but bore the hallmarks of Miguel Martinez, Emma Melendez and Rubi Ramirez as well...

Sergio is another one of Taxco’s “enigmatic” names. Whether a maestro or a retailer is not known nor is their relationship - if any at all - with the other Sergio whose name is signed in script. Over the years of my buying and selling vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I have come upon a few examples of their work - and I loved them all. The modernist articulated necklace I am presenting here, very much in the spirit of Sigi Pineda’s designs, is the epitome of minimalism...

Maestro C. Molina is one of those “enigmatic” figures of Mexico’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance. Even in Bille Hougart’s seminal work on hallmarks and makers there is minimal information about him - namely, two or three examples of the way his jewelry is hallmarked and the photos are really difficult to read...

One of my favorite insect designs in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry, this “machine age” dragonfly is known as a Los Castillo creation yet here it is signed by a “less celebrated” Taxco maestro. What first attracted me to this creature is its “industrial”, perforated wings that make the dragonfly look more delicate but awe-inspiring at the same time. Carefully hand-crafted and perfectly finished, the brooch is decorated with three polished agate cabochons...

One of the best "manufacturers" of silver jewelry and holloware in Peru Industria Peruana created some amazing "Inca Revival" (if I am permitted the term) pieces around the middle of the 20th c. when Graziella Laffi was also active. Their designs are beautifully executed with crisp detail and careful finishing and very often it is Peru's rich history that provided the motifs...

In the years I have been buying and selling vintage Mexican silver jewelry I have seen many "mask" pieces - this is, after all, one of the "pillars" in the genre's design index and I am also very partial to it and always on the look out for good examples. I have to also admit that seeing jewelry of a certain kind over and over again makes one a little more blasé and hence, more difficult to impress. Yet impressed I was with this astounding combination pin / pendant I am presenting here...

Maestro Mateo of Taxco is known among vintage jewelry collectors for his modernist, mostly brutalist, ring designs. His work is sought after for its quality, the beauty of the stones he incorporates in his pieces and the strong sense of tension that his rings exude. His career strides the divide between the so-called Eagle mark period and that of the T-marks and, in my experience, he is one of the very few silversmiths who used .950 alloys before they became the norm in the 1980s...

A retailer active in the 1930s and 1940s, Ingrid's was - according to Bille Hougart - known for their high quality hollowware and jewelry which they commissioned from the best Taxco maestros...

Sized for a man (yet resizable by a jeweler to fit a woman as well) this vintage Mexican silver and carved amethyst "mask" ring attracted me with its unusual brutalist setting. I don't think I have ever encountered a "mask" in a brutalist ring and I was quite thrilled with the discovery despite the fact that the stone was showing its age and the shank was burdened with a huge blob of solder thanks to somebody's clumsy attempt at resizing...

A rather rare design - I have never encountered it before - by Enrique Ledesma, this pair of earrings brings to mind classical representations of the Aztec Sun Disk yet, in fact, the figure centering them is Tlaltecuhtli, one of the Mexica Earth deities, often referred to as the Earth Monster...

The combination of fine, high purity silver and moonstone is one of my favorite and was equally favored, it seems, by Antonio Pineda, Taxco's renowned modernist. Set in three-dimensional 970 silver settings the stones at hand have a luminous pearlescence that draws the eye into their magical depths, and perfectly reflect the warm glow of the precious metal surrounding them. Antonio's jewelry is characterized by an unfailing sense of easy luxury and that feeling is present here as well...

Playing the violin with abandon as is evident by their determined expression, Margot de Taxco’s “musician putti” come here in earring form which is a rather rare occurrence...

One of the techniques the Los Castillo workshop pioneered, “pluma Azteca” uses dyed bird feathers as inlay to adorn jewelry and other decorative items. Quite impressive in their colorful vibrancy, the feathers can also be vulnerable, especially when they are left exposed, resulting in a rather small number of “pluma” jewelry having survived over the years. The articulated torque-type necklace at hand is a wonderful exception. Combining the slick minimalism of its modernist silver-work wi...

Impressively long and beguilingly slick with its glowing tapering dangles half-hiding a bullet-shaped piece of black onyx, this is one of Antonio Pineda’s most eye-catching set of earrings. Simple yet visually strong lines that re-affirm the philosophy of less-is-more in the world of adornment; smooth as silk, dancer-like motion; fleshy geometry (if you allow me the word combination), all come together and become a piece of wearable art in the hands of Mexico’s modernist magician. Measuring ...

I love the Los Ballesteros family of massive, “dimpled dot” hinged bracelets and I am constantly on the look out for great examples. Wrought in sterling silver and adorned with a big, bezel-set agate cabochon that celebrates all hues of green, this beauty is a variation of the version with amethyst that is also available on my site. The difference in the bracelet at hand is that the “butterfly” motif that showcases the stone has additional “dots” in it that take up some of what would...

Who among lovers of vintage Mexican silver jewelry does not know Margot de Taxco's zodiac treasures? Charms, pendant, charm bracelets and brooches, they come in all those forms and they are avidly collected. Yet how many times have you come upon a mini, almost lingerie size, Margot astrological pin? Rare and sweet as can be, this 1 1/2" Aries beauty is irresistible. I can easily see it worn alongside one of its... "adult" versions, don't you think? Just just a tad over 1 1/2" tall by 13/16" wide...