Catalog: Estate Jewelry (319)

Vintage 1980s Talleres de Los Ballesteros Mexican modernist bracelet wrought in Antonio Pineda’s favorite .970 alloy which is richer in silver content than the standard sterling, this is a heavy, architectural piece adorned with clear, faceted, gem-quality amethysts. The stones are open on the back to maximize the effect created by the light as it passes through them and the all-silver links are substantial and very sculptural...

Slick, strong design that brings to mind the best of Scandinavian modernism, this sterling silver studio-made necklace consisting of neck ring and pendant is an unsigned American beauty...

A graduate of the Parson's School of Design in Paris, Erika Hult de Corral is one of my favorite modernist designers and silversmiths in the context of Mexican silver jewelry. Spanning a few decades, her work is unfailingly of the highest quality with attention paid not only to materials but also to finishing and, of course, imaginative design. The ring presented here, wrought in sterling and centered by a scrumptious tiger's eye stone, can also be found with Enrique Ledesma's signature...

A fabulous example of Taxco modernism by Los Ballesteros, this vintage Mexican silver and amethyst bracelet is as beautiful to look at as it is comfortable to wear. A couple of days ago I presented another creation by the same workshop and I will suggest that the two pieces are representative of their line of medium-width modernist link bracelets...

One of the most massive bracelet designs by the Los Ballesteros workshop this vintage sterling silver and amethyst hinged bangle is simply astounding! Sweeping wire-work curves and fleshy “dimpled dot” repousse semi-spheres come together to form the bracelet’s two wings while a huge, saturated purple amethyst cabochon takes center front adding color and drama...

Crafted in the late 1950s or in the 1960s, this sterling silver Mexican necklace is signed by Victoria or Ana Maria Nunez de Brilanti. Victoria is one of the few female designers and silversmiths of Taxco’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance that we know of and she is credited, among others, for perfecting the “metales casados” or “married metals” technique. In this necklace, however, she adds a modernist twist to an otherwise “archeological” design...

Undoubtedly the result of artistic cross-pollination this vintage Mexican silver neck ring pendant necklace emits an intense Scandinavian vibe . Evocative of Danish modernist jewelry, it is not just the shapes that refer to it but also the choice of sodalite cabochons to accompany the warmly glowing silver. Slick, elegant, versatile - a combination which still speaks to our modern eye even though created almost a century ago...

Fortuno Mota, a talented Taxco maestro who in the 1950s and 1960s produced many of Antonio Pineda’s pieces, signs this stunning set of modernist dangle earrings. Crafted in Antonio’s signature fine .970 alloy, the pair reminds me of slender flutes as they elegantly hang off geometric stations with stone inlay. The inlay and the beads in which the dangles end seem to be made of azur-malachite with the second component responsible for the predominantly green and brown hues...

Breathtakingly beautiful this vintage sterling silver cuff bracelet, Navajo or Southwestern based on the style, is one of those pieces that become heirlooms. Exceptionally well crafted, it is centered by a huge oval lace agate, the color of the stone showing at times powdery blue, at times light grey. Set in a fine saw-tooth bezel, the agate is surrounded by beading and beautiful, richly layered foliate and floral overlay...

Offered here as a pair, these beautiful vintage heishi necklaces are made up of slender shell disks, turquoise, silver and glass beads and what I think are most probably shark teeth. They have been with me for a long, long time and I always thought I would combine them into one longer piece yet never gotten around to it. So it's time for them to go to a new, loving home where they will be worn and enjoyed once again...

Crafted of 14k yellow gold and housing a silver coin that shows chariot horses and their charioteer this impressive, towering ring is, I believe, of Greek extraction. The coin is a reproduction of an ancient Macedonian piece from the time of Phillip II, the father of Alexander the Great - part of the king's name in Greek letters "...ΛΙΠΠΟΥ" (of Philip) can be seen under the beasts' hind legs...

If I saw this piece from far away, I would think it's a poison ring - that's how impressive in size and lift its gallery is. Yet not to worry, there is no hidden compartment here and you won't be tempted to become a modern-day Lucrezia Borgia! Beauty and commanding presence, though, yes! There is a lot of that in the sodalite's dark blue depths with their cloudy grey swirls and that river of black cutting across right through the cab's middle...

Surrounded by the headless body of a coiled serpent the bezel-set turquoise adorning this Carmen Beckmann ring is one of the most visually interesting specimens of the stone I have recently seen. The variations in its green color in combination with the off-whites and the intense matrix come together in a way that suggests a mountainous landscape, dark boulders looming in the back, green grass still covered with patches of snow here and there...

I don’t often use the expression “Holy Grail” but Tane’s “Tarascan” necklace is one of those few pieces in the world of vintage Mexican silver jewelry that deserves it. Especially if it bears pre-1980 hallmarks - which is the case here. Habitually referred to as “the Tiffany’s of Mexico”, Tane has been producing holloware and jewelry in silver and gold since 1942 and is known throughout the world for the quality of craftsmanship, impeccable design and perfect finishing...

I love the Los Ballesteros family of massive, “dimpled dot” hinged bracelets and I am constantly on the look out for great examples...

Out of Enrique Ledesma’s sterling silver and gemstone line, this modernist Mexican hinged bracelet is adorned with two faceted color-change sapphires. Mimicking the behavior of alexandrites by changing hue under different light conditions, these stones are often referred to as alexandrites themselves but they are in fact synthetic corundum. Set on stems that allow them to rise above the ribbon-like applique at the bracelet’s face, the gems go from deep amethyst to a steely purple, their spar...

Matching the highly geometric cuff bracelet that is also available in my store, this vintage Los Castillo Mexican silver modernist ring still cherishes the austere angularity of the Deco years. Set in channels defined by sterling wires, the saturated blues and greens of the azur-malachite inlay clearly mark it as belonging to the workshop's "mozaico Azteca" line. Its strong geometry notwithstanding, the ring is easy to wear since the shank curves as it progress towards the back providing a smoot...

One of the most successful duo in Taxco’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Cecilia and Tono excelled in some of the most difficult techniques in jewelry making like piedra negra, metales casados and mozaico Azteca. Their jewelry is usually modernist yet their designs unfailingly reference Mexico’s rich archeological heritage. I particularly love their “mask” pieces, especially their rings that do not come up very often and I am thrilled to have come upon the tiger’s eye example presented h...