Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver (311)

Born in Florence, Italy but spending her life as a designer and silversmith in Lima, Peru, Graziella Laffi found inspiration in the art of her adopted country's old civilizations, respectfully situating ancient motifs in her own, mid-century context. Laffi is habitually referred to by all who loyally collect her work as "the Spratling of Peru", a parallel that bespeaks the originality of her work and the quality of the jewelry, hollowware and decorative items she created...

One of the most talented Taxco maestros, Gerardo Lopez was exceptional in the art of repoussage and his jewelry is sought after and avidly collected for its quality and inventive motif combinations. I have suggested in the past that he must have worked for the Los Castillo and / or Margot de Taxco because many of the motifs he uses are also found in the famous workshops' creations...

It's been a while since I presented a piece by Gerardo Lopez but he is one of my favorite Taxco maestros, a talented silversmith and designer who excelled in the art of repoussage. I believe Lopez was at his best when he created pectoral necklaces and clamper bracelets and it is an exquisite example of the latter form that I am showing here...

Caricaturesque in the most endearing, spirit-lifting way this vintage Mexican silver fish brooch will put a smile on your face no matter rain or shine! Executed in confident repoussage which adds sculpturality and drama to a highly detailed body, it has a cheerful amethyst eye and thick, exaggerated lips. It looks to me as if it's singing down there in the deep - I can almost see tiny air bubbles coming out of its mouth. Measuring 2 3/4" long by 7/8" wide the brooch weighs 12.6 grams...

Silver lipstick cases / holders from Italy are not a rare occurrence yet how often do you come upon a signed Peruzzi example? As difficult to find as it is beautiful, this one has it all - the signature, the warm patina, the delicate floral etched decoration and tiny little sparkling red rhinestones at the center of each dainty flower. Even the tab that holds the pop-up mirror is shaped like a multi-petaled bloom. A collector's dream-come-true the case measures 2/3" wide and deep by 2 3/8" tall...

Stunning and rare, especially in its use of the specific stone, this vintage Mexican silver necklace features a combination pin / pendant signed by Taxco's foremost lapidary, Felipe Martinez, and a substantial chain from the same period which I believe might be by the same maestro as it bears an Eagle assay mark that Martinez used. And yes, the superbly carved "mask" is teased out of tiger's eye stone though a more unusual kind that it often referred to as "hawk's" or "falcon's eye"...

Reddish brown jasper with light, almost invisible striations attracts the eye in this absolutely minimalist necklace and earrings set bearing the signature of Felipe Martinez and his Piedra y Plata workshop. Martinez was one of Taxco’s best lapidaries and the tight settings, the seamless transitions from sterling to stone in the demi at hand more than attest to the level of his craftsmanship...

Matching the set of earrings that is also available in my store (you can see the demi together in two of the photos) this Mexican silver and azur-malachite ring by maestro Felipe Martinez is an ode to the power of color. Striking greens and dark, rich blues delight the eye while the elegance of the sterling ring shoulders complement in the best possible way the magic of the stone. Currently a sz because of the size it comes with (easily removed) the ring is an sz 7 (can also be easily resized)...

One of the best lapidaries in Taxco’s jewelry history, Felipe Martinez created amazing jewelry in many styles. The classy sterling silver and azur-malachite earrings at hand follow the “mozaico Azteca” line that was introduced by the Los Castillo workshop. Rich, dark blues, understated safe and a breath-taking splash of electric green come together in the stone inlay held securely in the most minimal “gypsy” setting...

An inspired lapidary and an ingenious designer Felipe Martinez opened his workshop “Piedra y Plata” in 1950. His work is a testament to his exceptional talent and his commitment to impeccable craftsmanship and the use of choice materials. I love all his jewelry but I believe that he was at its best working within the confines of modernism which he enriched with references to Mexico’s archeological past...

Richly colored azur-malachite stone is paired with warmly glowing sterling in this chunky modernist Mexican silver bracelet signed by none other than the maestro of Piedra y Plata, Felipe Martinez. Martinez is one of my absolute favorite Taxco silversmith and a superb lapidary as well. He has an uncanny ability to pair silver with stone that works every single time, as if the two materials were just made to be together...

Distinctly Egyptian Revival in its inspiration, the set of Mexican Deco dangle earrings at hand reminds me very much of elements in Margot de Taxco's "Cleopatra" parure; more specifically, the feathers of the "vulture crown" the pharaoh is wearing. More stylized in our case they are here involved in an elaborate knot forming sculptural dangles that hang off the sweetest repousse rosettes...

Exuding a primordial strength and keeping its secrets well hidden under layers of hand-etched scales, beading and overlay this stunning creature - I see it as a sea serpent but on second thought and if those appliques running along its spine are stylized feathers, it could be Quetzalcoatl as easily - is another treasure bearing the signature of Doris and her Corpus Artisans group of maestros...

It is always vexing when a hallmark eludes identification and this is (almost) the case with the towering vintage silver ring at hand. Brutalist in design, having a big, semi-translucent chrysoprase cabochon nested in its elevated setting, it bears a partial hallmark which has been suggested to me is probably a maker’s mark from Spain. Home of renowned modernist designers such as Joachim S’Paliu and Puig Doria, Spain sounds like a plausible place of origin for our 1970s ring...

A graduate of the Parson's School of Design in Paris, Erika Hult de Corral is one of my favorite modernist designers and silversmiths in the context of Mexican silver jewelry. Spanning a few decades, her work is unfailingly of the highest quality with attention paid not only to materials but also to finishing and, of course, imaginative design. The ring presented here, wrought in sterling and centered by a scrumptious tiger's eye stone, can also be found with Enrique Ledesma's signature. Since ...

Made up of heavily “pitted” and oxidized beads, tubular links and a central medallion with asymmetrical dangles this Erika Hult de Corral Mexican silver necklace is an ode to modernism peppered with a touch of brutalism. Ric (as de Corral signs her pieces) has created a few versions of this particular design that I like to refer to as “moonscapes” and they are all a pleasure to wear and to behold. One of the few talented female contributors to Mexico’s 20th c. Silver Renaissance that ...

Substantial and quite unusual in its design this modernist Mexican silver bracelet is an Enrique Ledesma creation and it is adorned with two faceted color-change sapphires. The bracelet’s shape reminds me of ancient torques yet here the two ends bypass each other in a tight, determined embrace. I love the way the sterling tube grows in diameter as it progresses to the bracelet’s front where it is abruptly cut at an angle to accept the gemstone in a crown setting. Enrique Ledesma - always ori...

One of Taxco's foremost modernists, Enrique Ledesma was also an accomplished lapidary and his slick, mid-century jewelry often feature a seamless marriage of silver with semi-precious and other stones. In the bracelet presented here, the green inlay is ridged and discreetly held in its sterling setting creating a row of elongated shield-shaped links that moves smoothly and easily conforms to the wrist. Lovely patina, beautiful color variation and a great signature make this a must-have for your ...