Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Silver (311)

Straddling the divide between Aesthetic and Arts and Crafts design, this hinged sterling silver buckle bracelet was, I believe, made in the USA based on its hallmarking. The entire surface of the front "wing" is etched with ivy leaves, a motif beloved by the Victorians it seems, while the back is left blank, as is usually the case with bracelets of this type...

One of my favorite “less celebrated” early Mexican maestros, AEM (or AE Heart as he is also referred to because of the way he signs his work) had his workshop in Mexico City and he created some really nice pieces. It has been a long time since I presented something by him but this set of “mesh and bead” dangle earrings more than compensates for the gap...

Slick, strong design that brings to mind the best of Scandinavian modernism, this sterling silver studio-made necklace consisting of neck ring and pendant is an unsigned American beauty...

Long antique guard chains have been very popular in the last couple of years and I am very happy to have come upon this stunning solid silver example. This is not your ordinary guard chain, as you can see. All its links are hand-cut and chased, each featuring a beautiful forget-my-not flower and even the connectors are embellished with tiny little bead appliques...

Perfect for the black turtlenecks and heavy coats of winter this vintage Mexican Deco silver and turquoise bird of paradise brooch is a stupendous work of art! Not only does its sheer size stun the eye, its layered sculpturality and curvaceous repoussage invites the touch and allows the light to play a thousand tricks hiding in its recesses and reflecting off its elevations...

A puzzling piece - though it is signed “Birks”, the hallmark does not look like the Canadian company’s commonly encountered marks - this vintage sterling vermeil pin is a small work of art. Slender and elegant, the flower it represents consists of a textured silver stem while its leaves and bloom are made of molded jadeite glass. The glass is supple and glistens thanks to the glaze that was applied over it and the brooch has that romantic, nature-loving air of 1940s jewelry...

Generously long with a twist-rope chain of good thickness and its original dog clip, this antique silver guard or muff chain does not stop giving! I would have loved it even as a long chain necklace but what makes it irresistible for me is its Art Nouveau slide with its portrait of the idealized female. Shown in profile in a geometric frame tempered by stylized flowers, her wavy hair held back by a floral ribbon, she is the personification of calm and serenity...

Four figural links featuring classic Italian monuments and city symbols adorn this long, Renaissance Revival silver chain. This is the style associated with the Peruzzi and Coppini Bros workshops of Florence and based on the quality of the castings, I would suggest that it was made by either one of them. The figural links are complemented by floral ones while perfect sodalite beads add their strong color to the necklace...

Very evocative of the Arts and Crafts style but most probably made in the 1940s, this elegant sterling silver ring is adorned with a pearlescent purple moonglow lucite “stone”. This type of luxurious plastic was very popular in the 1940s and extensively used in the world of costume jewelry so I think it’s an exciting surprise to find a sterling ring set with it. Please note the detail in the layers of leaves that form the shoulders, the tiny lozenges and linear designs enhancing the bezel...

When I first started my love-affair with vintage Mexican silver jewelry, I found myself intrigued by the work of artists whose names were not among the first ones a new collector would focus on. I love a challenge and seeking out “less celebrated” maestros who nevertheless created superbly crafted jewelry in imaginative designs became my “mission”...

A rare design - in all my years of dealing in vintage Mexican silver jewelry I have never encountered another example - this generously sized Deco brooch is fun and most probably a conversation piece! I have had it for a while but I decided that the festive atmosphere in the weeks leading up to the holidays is the perfect time to present it. Whether you see it as a sparkling royal scepter or a glorified marching band baton, it conjures up bright, merry images of celebration and luxury...

In my last treasure-hunting adventure I ended up with a couple of really really nice cross pendants and necklaces. The first one to gain center stage is this two-sided Flli Coppini Italian silver example. Executed in the .800 alloy that was the Italian standard until 1934, the pendant is crisply cast and its profusion of detail and ornamentation is easily readable to the eye...

One of the most interesting - and few - female figures of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Doris Smith Chamberlin was a Texas-born American who decided to move to Mexico in the 1940s to open her own workshop after having completed post-graduate studies in art and having taught woodworking, textile-making and silver-smithing for a few years in California (I am grateful to Decotini for the information)...

Two different sizes of sterling silver barrel beads adorned with a myriad of hand-made florets in the Etruscan style make up this generously long Mexican lariat necklace from the pre-1948 period. I am very partial to long necklaces and lariats are a small obsession of mine. When I am lucky enough to come upon an Etruscan example as the one presented here, my heart skips a beat...

Lariat necklaces are a favorite of mine and when I come upon a good Mexican example, I make every effort to bring it to One Good Eye Silver. Truth be told, they don't come up as often as other forms but it is an exciting quest to pursue...

It is always exciting when I stumble upon a Mexican chain necklace made of polished, tumbled hard-stones caged in sterling silver. When that example happens to be from the pre-1948 period, I am elated! Made up of various agates and black onyx, maybe even a jasper here and there, the necklace at hand is perfect for the winter, its colors warm and cozy yet somewhat subdued , mirroring the dormant nature all around. The necklace measures 30 1/2” long with its stone widths varying between 1/2” ...

An early Mexican Deco bracelet, made in Mexico City as indicated by its hallmarks, this massive piece is as well-crafted as it is impressive. Impressive might even be an understatement, actually. Though it is true that vintage Mexican silver jewelry is not of the delicate, demure kind, even after so many years of researching, buying and selling them, I find myself at a loss for words when a piece like this shows up. I love the Spanish Colonial air of the wirework adorning the convex panels with ...

I was always in love with beaded necklaces but as I grow older I appreciate their elegant comfort even more. Whether worn alone or combined with similar pieces, with stones or all-silver, they can be counted on to save the day whatever the occasion. This specific design by Carmen Beckmann is one of my absolute favorites - I have one in my jewelry box and I will never let go. Made up of two sizes of beads, one plain, the other embellished with ornate wire-work, it is most usually found in choker ...