It's almost the middle of August but this vintage Antonio Pineda brooch makes me think of leaves twirling in the wind filling the world with the fiery golds and reds of Fall. It is characteristic of the design genius inherent in some maestros that they can take a simple, familiar form and put such a twist to it (in our case literally), the form turns into a little work of art. This is a very sculptural brooch, the sense of motion it holds within it strong, its patina to die for...

Sometimes things just fall into your lap unexpectedly and this is what happened with the two Antonio Pineda brooches I am listing today. First up a fun (albeit ... smelly in real life, if you are not careful) figural brooch glorifying our beloved skunk! At least, I think it's a skunk and I wish I had a more noble name for the creature. Such an unusual, tongue-in-cheek design for Antonio who is seriously modernist and quite heavy at times...

Measuring 4 inches high & 3 1/2" across this impressive hand wrought sterling silver & bronze brooch was designed & signed in the 1940's by Taxco, Mexico artist William Spratling (1900-67). The detailed repousse' work is exquisite & the condition excellent. The piece weighs 57 grams and is fully hallmarked. The pin back & safety are in fine working order. Pictured on the cover of the 4th edition of MEXICAN SILVER by Penny Morrill & Carole Berk and on Phyllis Goddard's site spratlingsilver.com...

Featured in Spratling's 1942 Christmas catalogue this silver I.D. bracelet was hand crafted at the Spratling Taller in Taxco, Mexico. The design features a slide-in tongue closure. Weighing 57 grams it is 1/2" wide and will fit up to a 7 1/2" wrist. The bracelet was never monogramed. The condition and patina are excellent. Fully hallmarked on the reverse.

As rare-as-can-be not just for its signature but also for the black opal baguettes it showcases, this vintage Mexican silver architectural ring was created by Carmen Beckmann. Beckmann is reported in the literature to have worked primarily in the 1950s and 1960s in San Miguel de Allende and her jewelry can vary from inspired to simply good. When she was at her most creative though, she made pieces that are to die for! This ring is, in my opinion, one of those moments of hers...

Slick, less-is-more design and a beautifully carved amethyst "mask" make this vintage 1950s Mexican sterling silver ring easy to wear and a real treat for the eye! There is something masculine about the simplicity of the ring itself that is, however, tempered by the delicately soft, slender features of the stone "face". The amethyst is here semi-translucent and the absence of intense inclusions allows the light to penetrate it and make it look like purple Italian ice...

There are buckle bracelets and then, there are BUCKLE BRACELETS! And a spectacular Mexican Deco specimen of the latter I am proud to be presenting here. Honestly, however, all the aaahs and ooohs aside, this is one of the most glamorous mesh jewelry I have encountered even though its design elements are few and quite simple, if one thinks about it. Extra wide and finely woven, the sterling mesh is flexible and comfortably wraps around the wrist...

One of my favorite - and at the same time classic - Enrique Ledesma designs the bracelet at hand combines sterling silver and golden sheen obsidian in the maestro's characteristic, perfectly seamless way. Ledesma experimented with various stones creating the specific bracelet but I think this year is meant to be an "obsidian year" for me and I will say that I love this version...

Massive Los Ballesteros Mexican silver pendant, layered, adorned with beading and oxidation, in a convex shape that pushes the huge citrine centering it out at you - this is one of the most impressive pendants of theirs I have seen. For me it betrays a distinct Spanish Colonial influence as it based on the ornate order medals royals around the world like to bestow on select individuals to show favor and appreciation...

It is not easy to stumble upon a vintage Los Ballesteros carved "mask" ring but when one does find an example, what a feast it is! There is nothing "timid" about this piece. The philosophy here is big, bold and beautiful and I believe that the Los Ballesteros workshop accomplished all this monumentality in the most amazing, masterful, and eye-pleasing way. The "mask" is here carved out of a dark green agate, I believe, with grayish white specs in it...

Biomorphic sterling silver appliques on a highly oxidized "puffy" background take center-stage in this modernist Mexican set of Salvador Teran earrings. I grew up close to the sea so to my eyes, it's little crabs catching a bit of sun on mossy beach pebbles that are pictured here but your mind's eye might see something entirely different. Precious like all Salvador jewelry, beautifully made, not entirely identical as is the case with hand-wrought pieces of wearable art...

Question marks, whether straight or inverted, seem to have provided a fun, tongue-in-cheeck motif when Taxco maestros were designing earrings. I have seen them hanging off repousse semi-spheres, studded with turquoise cabs and even having cascabeles themselves. Yet this big, bold and beautiful set goes above and beyond its peers. Sculptural repoussage, tiny beading accents and oxidation combine here with gorgeous bezel-set amethyst cabs in a curvaceous, sexy pair of Mexican Deco earrings...

Generously long, with a hefty chain and an unusual stylized floral design, this early Mexican Deco necklace combines silver and copper in a playful yet still bold way...

In my opinion one of the most talented Taxco maestros, Felipe Martinez worked with Hubert Harmon for a brief period in the 1940s (see Hougart, Little Book of Mexican silver, p. 105) and created some of the most amazing jewelry in Taxco's heyday. And even though I am always impressed by the quality of the silver-work, it is mostly the lapidary work that elevates his "Piedra y Plata" creations to the level of sublime perfection. No wonder since Martinez was a sculptor and worked as such before he ...

This is only the second time I have ever had this incredible carved "mask" and sterling silver Mexican Deco pin / pendant and I am thrilled to have come upon another example after years of looking for it! One of the most enchanting "masks" from this period I have seen in terms of the lapidary skill it demonstrates, I call it euphemistically a "Medusa head" even though its theme is a little more gruesome than the severed head of a gorgon from ancient Greek mythology. Whether a vanquished enemy or...

A brooch that unabashedly lures the eye and invites the touch this sterling silver and golden sheen obsidian treasure bears the signature of Erika Hult de Corral, one of the few female designers of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance that we know of and definitely the only modernist. de Corral's work can be truly inspired - and she has a way with silver and stones that makes the materials simply flow into each other effortlessly, as if they were always meant to be together. Just look at how the ...

One of the best Taxco modernists Enrique Ledesma was successful not only as a jewelry designer but also as a mosaicist and a lapidary. Two of his favorite materials, sterling silver and stone, are combined here in a classic for the maestro design. Minimalist, quite geometric with clean, easy to follow lines, the necklace's only luxury seems to be the saturated, rich green of the chrysocolla (I think!) trapezoids. Easy to wear and quite comfortable as it has the ability to conform to the necklin...

Fine, .970 silver and black onyx crescents surround the wrist in this book-piece Antonio Pineda Mexican modernist bracelet. One of the renowned maestro's most popular creations, I have to admit that I love the bracelet much more than the cascading necklace of the same design. There is something fierce and assertive about the crescent-shaped links that remind me of talons. Yet there is also a tenderness in the way they wrap themselves around the wrist - just like an eagle mother protecting her ne...

We have a very rare Salvador Teran vintage Mexican silver necklace with matching earrings. Both pieces have a strong presence with the earrings being 25 grams and 2.25 inches tall. At the widest point they measure 1.25 inches. A technique called Niello makes a beautiful smokey black finish on the silver and was widely used in the making of Mexican Silver. The drop on the necklace is three dimensional and stands 2 inches tall and 1.75 inches at the widest point. The wearable length is approximat...

I love these Mexican Deco "berries-on-a-branch" brooches! They are big and impressive and the berries come in different colors depending on the kind of agate used. I am always on the look-out for the best examples, the ones in which the silver branches are hefty and interestingly entwined and the berries made of good quality stone, rich in striations and color-variation. Admittedly a piece that requires a winter garment - it would be too heavy for a delicate silk blouse - yet one that would also...

Generously long and definitely mod, this Erika Hult de Corral necklace is a minimalist little treasure! Not only does it wear like a dream - for me it is the epitome of "less-is-more", except for the luscious greens that make the polished stone centering it a treat for the eye. This is a pre-1980 example of her work and quite versatile since you can easily wear it with that classy black dress or have it casually adorn your favorite worn T-shirt. The necklace measures 21 1/2" long and its width v...

Rare Mexican Deco silver repousse figural necklace, its five graduated links featuring what I believe to be a neo-Aztec interpretation of Cinteotl, one of the three goddesses of corn and fertility. Bare-breasted and kneeling in a corn field, holding in her hands an ear of maize and adorned with earrings and a pendant necklace, it is in fact two different figures that we are looking at; while the bodies and what surrounds them is the same, the jewelry and the faces themselves are different. I hav...

Classic Fred Davis Mexican Deco silver and turquoise bracelet in a design that is considered an iconic creation for the renowned designer, especially in this combination of materials. A row of repousse florets with stone hearts comfortably hugs the wrist and conforms to its movements freely. The turquoise cabs have developed an interesting variation of hues over the years which, in combination for the warmly glowing patina, adds character and a certain "life experience" to the bracelet. Need I s...

One of the pieces that were made around WWII, I believe, this Mexican silver and carved dyed calcite brooch is such a find! Shaped like a US Army officer's visor cap, complete with the appropriate insignia, it recounts part of the relationship the two countries had during those difficult times albeit in its jewelry version. The fact is that during WWII and due to the restrictions on the availability of metals which were dedicated to the war effort, many US jewelry manufacturers and big retailers...

One of the finest cuffs out there. A Really magnificent Ortega still showing the inside gold wash which helps release the bracelet from the pressing. The feathered headdress and the intricate swirls of flowers on each side show a masterful designer. It wows with a 5.25 inches height. The diameter of the bracelet is 2.5 inches by 3 inches up the arm. It can be professionally sized to fit at no charge. Pressed perfectly with no light holes or damage. It is signed Ortega, 925 Mexico, eagle 8 and a ...

Swallows hold within their slender, elegant little bodies tender memories of my childhood in Greece - they are considered the most important harbingers of spring and symbolize regeneration, hope and the assurance that sun-filled days will always follow the darkest hours of winter. For the Victorians, they represented faithfulness and the promise of a loved-one's return and as a motif, they were widely used in sentimental jewelry. This stunning Mexican Deco silver repousse version captures the bi...

The last example of a small Los Castillo "onix negro" jewelry collection I acquired a little time ago, this mod bracelet is perfect for the medium to smaller wrist. Its thick links remind me of mahjong tiles and I am captivated by their minimalist geometry. Easy to wear yet definitely a bracelet whose weight feels warm and familiar when you have it on - the perfect accessory to add that little bit of style to make it special. Measuring 6 3/8" long (wearable) by 1/2" wide it weighs 50.0 grams. It...

Gerardo Lopez is one of my favorite Taxco maestros. I believe his talent and workmanship to have been of the same caliber as that of his more famous contemporaries and I am always on the look out for his jewelry. Based on his work, I believe that he must have worked for at least the Los Castillo and/or Margot de Taxco and his prowess in the art of repoussage supports the hypothesis. But he didn't limit himself to the more "straightforward" kind of silversmithing - I have had enameled pieces by h...

Based on an ancient glyph, or at least inspired by one, this vintage Los Castillo Mexican silver and azur-malachite inlay necklace is out of the workshop's "mozaico Azteca" line of jewelry. Centuries old, the technique became almost obsolete during the Colonial period but was revived by Chato Castillo, one of Taxco's most talented, innovative and original maestros. The coloration of the stone here leans towards the greens and taupes with rich blues present here and there to add that visual surpr...

Perfect for medium to smaller wrists, this modernist Erika Hult de Corral bracelet was made in Taxco in the 1960s-70s. One of the few female contributors to Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance that we know of, de Corral studied at the Parson's School of Design in Paris. An award-winning designer, she worked with Sigi Pineda and Enrique Ledesma before opening her own workshop. Always within the scope of modernism, her jewelry is impeccably crafted, with high quality materials and when they don't ...

Dating around 1930, this Mexican Deco Fred Davis necklace in a design that rarely comes up, is an early example of "mixed metals" jewelry. Combining repousse silver with copper wire and then bringing in ripe, saturated color with the amethyst cabs, the necklace is an ode to vineyards and aromatic red wine. Though the brooch of the parure appears in the third edition of Morrill's "Mexican Silver" (p. 28), the necklace is hard to find and I am thrilled to be presenting it here. Beautiful repoussag...

Here is a rare Los Castillo necklace design # 482A. The weight is pure lux at 85grams. Length of this treasure is 16 in. and it lays like silk. The links are strung on silver cable links. Correctly signed and with no damage. Certainly collector quality and perfect for fun or board room savy, just LOOK AT THAT NECKLACE!

In 1940 Spratling was commissioned to design the first logo for Aeromexico Airlines then known as Aeronaves de Mexico S.A. The design included a stylized eagle with serpent in its' beak along with AMSA. Penny Morrill's beautiful new book DREAMING IN SILVER (p.111 & 123)discusses this period and features the deeply carved and detailed pin based on Spratling's AMSA design. Measuring 1 1/4" X 1 1/4" the pin is in beautiful condition. The unusual pin closure/safety on the back is tight and secure. ...

The emerald Salvador Teran is one of the most sleek and rich designs from his body of work. The stones are raw uncut emerald crystals. The necklace diameter is 5.3 inches and the face front is .75 of an inch. The neck band is jointed for a perfect fit and the drop displayed for a straight forward look at the emeralds. It masterfully displays 72 grams of silver and is 18 inches of wearable length. The bracelet is 7 inches long and is also segmented for a perfect fit. One inch is the height of th...

We have offered today a very early Antonio Pineda repousse brooch signed with his earliest hallmark of AP. The Quetzalcoatl is beautifully done and with no damage. The dimensions are 3in. long and 2 3/8th's tall at highest points. This size is perfect for holding a shawl together on a chilly night. The weight is 26 grams of thick silver. A very special treasure.

This ribbed Hector Aguilar Bracelet is a rare find with 104 grams of heft and a striking height of 1 3/4 inches. Perfectly hallmarked with an applied plaque. This treasure is well rounded fitting perfectly on the wrist. The diameter is 2 3/8 in. The 6 stones are a hidden surprise presenting to the one who wears it. No dents and versatile to wear with anything anywhere.

One of the most interesting - and few - female figures of Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance, Doris Smith Chamberlin was a Texas-born American who decided to move to Mexico in the 1940s to open her own workshop after having completed post-graduate studies in art and having taught woodworking, textile-making and silver-smithing for a few years in California (I am grateful to Decotini for the information). In Mexico City, where she settled, she created and sold her own designs but also commission...

Dashing early modernist Mexican silver and amethyst earrings with the signature of the Los Ballesteros workshop, this set is a variation on the "clamshell" type of jewelry that was so popular with modernist Taxco maestros in the mid- to later 1940s. Having taken their name from the concave, clamshell-like silver platform within which semi-precious and polished hard-stones are housed, this sub-genre of Mexican beauties is characterized by absolute minimalism that is only tempered by the lusciousn...

Spratling uses one single rod of thick sterling silver to form this elegant "safety pin". Worked by hand, the detailed swan's head is formed, continuing down to the double looped turn, ending with the sleek, tapered point. Measuring 3 3/4 inches long and 1/2" wide the piece is in beautiful condition. The ingenious design allows for excellent tension in opening and closing the pin point. The thickness of the rod is most suitable for looser weaved fabric. Using one single piece of metal is remini...

Early and gorgeous Matilde Poulat sterling silver and coral bracelet in one of her iconic designs, the "paloma". This is classic Matl with the bird rendered in textured repoussage, its wings open, ready to fly away. The dove is surrounded by coral cabochons both bezel- and channel-set while small pieces of branch coral adorn the links of the chain. I find the relative "minimalism" (speaking for Matl, of course) in the use of one stone only quite refreshing and soothing to the eye as opposed to t...

An early Taxco maestro, Manuel Altamirano worked for both Aguilar and Valentin Vidaurreta. With the former, he shares what has come to be known as the "armadillo" parure, out of which you can see here the quite impressive belt buckle. Evocative of the “armor plates” covering the body of the namesake creatures, the buckle's links are graduated in size and adorned with short, flat-topped round appliques. Big and bold, it can be worn easily by either men and women and would look equally stunnin...

Good early Mexican Deco silver repousse jewelry is becoming harder to find - I don't know if it's because there weren't that many to begin with (quite often repoussage from that period seems a little clumsy, the technique needing additional experimenting with) or that at some point their popularity grew so much that they were "scooped up" from the market. Whatever the case, I am thrilled to be presenting this fantastic cuff bracelet with two saturated purple amethyst cabs here. I would call this...

One of Taxco's early maestros, Jose Luis Flores worked for Aguilar as well as for Emma and Miguel Melendez. Carefully crafted and meticulously finished, his jewelry is often based on creations by his more renowned colleagues yet he can be quite creative and original himself. In my opinion, he is at his best within the realm of modernist design and I believe that the bracelet presented here attests to that. Clever cut-outs, beading and layering combine to shape minimalist "masks" that are then "m...

Margot de Taxco's design no 5194, her "roses" parure, is one of her most romantic, "feminine" creations. There is something so tactile about the small silver flowers linking together to make up necklaces, bracelets and brooches that brings a certain kind of "first love" warmth to the heart and puts a smile on the face. Quite often combined with hearts and cupids, the "roses" are the quintessentially "lovers' jewelry" motif. The design's appeal seems to have lasted for a long time since most of t...

Imposing presence and a beautiful green stone that I believe is agate combine in this vintage Mexican silver ring by the Los Ballesteros workshop. A mid-century piece in terms of its age, the ring does, however, retain the architecturality that Deco jewelry is known and sought after for. And then, of course, there is that detail of the twist-rope wire delineating the rectangular face - more of a traditional, Spanish Colonial touch but who could ever object to it? Currently a sz 6 US but easily r...

A stunner of a brooch, this Antonio Pineda sterling silver and amethyst floral cluster hails the maestro's finding himself as a modernist. Antonio's early pieces betray the strong influence Valentin Vidauretta exerted on his work, so much so that one acquainted with Pineda's classic design period would find it difficult to recognize them as Antonio creations. Yet here, the artist has already found his "hand". Minimalism yet full of exuberant life, sculpturality that makes you want to hold the br...

There is not one form of jewelry in which the Los Castillo did not excel yet I think their big, bold repousse brooches are simply above and beyond! The example I am presenting here, most probably an early creation if design numbers are indeed good indicators of when during the workshop's life a specific idea was transformed into jewelry, reflects the Egyptian Revival of the Deco period. The brooch is dominated by a lotus flower in full bloom, with scrolled elements surrounding a fleshy rosette a...

Mid-century mod "peas-in-a-pod" Mexican silver dangle earrings, this set is signed by Sigi Pineda and it's an iconic creation for the renowned Taxco modernist. I think Sigi was at his best when he worked with designs that contrasted niello-ed surfaces with brushed silver pearls. There is nothing classier than the marriage of black and gleaming sterling yet the textured beads add a dimension that enriches the earrings' visual impact. Gorgeous and timelessly elegant the earrings are 1 7/8" long by...

One of the demanding techniques the Los Castillo workshop is credited with, onix negro (black onyx) was introduced by them in the world of Taxco silver-smithing in the early 1950s and it has resulted in some amazing pieces of jewelry. Set within a carefully carved piece of flat-cut black onyx, the silver elements of a design are then ground down to match the stone surface in a seamless, perfect plane. The technique was picked up and experimented with by a few other Taxco maestros and it was also...

A most beautiful Frank Patania Senior cuff offered here with 7 large nuggets of turquoise. These nuggets measure 5/8th's tall and the overall height of the cuff is 2 inches. The length of the silver is 6.25 inches and the inside diameter is 2 3/8th's inches. There is a 1in. gap as well. Silver nuggets are dispersed an each side of the stones. Masterfull hand chasing and a heft of 112 grams. A huge presence and at an auction price value.

Filipe Martinez was well known at being the best stone cutter laying the stone next to the silver with no space in between. This is an outstanding example of such. The obsidian is a turned on sheen so strong I photographed and different light levels to help you see it in an in person sort of way. The necklace is 16 inches long 1.25 inches tall as well as the bracelet and the earrings. The bracelet is 7in. long. There is a 216 gram combined weight. A rare collectors set, just LOOK AT THAT NECKLAC...

One of the few female designers and silversmiths who contributed to Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance that we know about, Carmen Beckmann is reported in the literature to have worked primarily in the 1950s and 1960s in San Miguel de Allende. I am not sure if this is indeed the case, at least in terms of the dates when she was active and I only say this because many of the pieces by her that I have seen bore hallmarks that would indicate a pre-1948 date of crafting. This might be one of the fie...

How often does one find an Antonio Pineda locket pendant? Not often enough and if one does come upon such a treasure, what are the odds that it’s going to be big, bold and beautiful like the rare, fantastic example offered here? Hefty and meticulously crafted, from the twist-rope and beading detail surrounding the stone’s bezel to the dramatic amethyst oval that takes up almost the locket’s entire face, to the substantial hand-made chain (by a different maker yet perfectly matching the pen...

An iconic design for Sigi Pineda, the "boomerang" can be found with tiger's eye, like here, as well as black onyx, obsidian, amethyst and chrysoprase. Contrasting niello-ed against glistening silver surfaces "boomerang" pieces exude a sense of slick, unimpeded movement and the wire-wrapped cabochons bring more color and added texture. An interesting detail about the pair of earrings at hand is that it has "transitional" findings - a combination of screw backs and clips that many find easier to n...

An accomplished member of the Mexico City school of repoussage, maestro M. Velazquez was a contemporary of Matilde Poulat's and many of his designs are actually based on Matl's originals. The level of craftsmanship and the quality of his work have contributed to his becoming increasingly sought after by collectors, especially with the high prices Poulat's creations realize. I love all his pieces but I have a particular affinity for his brooches and this one, I have never seen in the past. Intere...

Sterling overlay and three-dimensional stone frogs turn this Carmen Beckmann necklace into a small sculpture gallery around the neck! One of the few known to us female contributors to Mexico's 20th c. Silver Renaissance albeit active a little later than the beginnings of the big Mexico City and Taxco workshops, she was based in San Miguel de Allende in the 1950s and 1960s and that is where she created most of her jewelry. Quite often borrowing motifs from Spratling's earlier pieces, Beckmann's j...

A silver arrow shooting through the turquoise center of a starburst is quite a powerful design and in the hands of Antonio Pineda, it becomes a jewel to be enjoyed and lovingly bequeathed from generation to generation. I like the little game Antonio plays here - who wouldn't expect the arrow to shoot through a heart, right? After all, Eros and his bittersweet weapons are so familiar to all of us. But no - the arrow in our case shoots for the ... stars and the turquoise blue sky is its limit... M...

Sterling silver inlaid with azur-malachite, here with browns and greens dominating, this set of vintage Mexican earrings is out of the Los Castillo "mozaico Azteca" line. I find jewelry created with this technique fascinating - the array of colors in the inlay is wide and rich, allowing the same piece to re-create itself as it plays with the changing light. That playfulness is here taken to a higher level with the addition of musical cascabeles, four on each earring, that will fill the air with ...

Set of modernist Mexican earrings bearing the Los Castillo signature, each earring featuring two male profiles, one executed in silver, the second with azur-malachite inlay. Though the Mozaico Azteca technique employed here was among the innovations and revivals the Los Castillo workshop is credited for, I believe the pair at hand was in fact designed by their cousin, Salvador Teran, when he was still working with them. The set's sheer minimalism is only tempered by the saturated color in the st...

From the earlier part of Matilde Poulat's magically creative career this set of silver and red coral earrings is characterized by her textured wirework, beading and bezel-set stones. Almost understated when compared to Matl's usually bold designs, it reminds me of inverted question marks. I love the classic elegance and the way the dark patina of the silver makes the saturated color of the cabs pop. The earrings are 1 1/2" tall by 1" wide and weigh 11.5 grams (for the set). They are signed with ...