A retailer active in the 1930s and 1940s, Ingrid's was - according to Bille Hougart - known for their high quality hollowware and jewelry which they commissioned from the best Taxco maestros...

A nice man's ring featuring a large cat’s eye quartz cabochon. The stone has pronounced chatoyancy (the cat’s eye effect) with excellent color contrast. The interior of the shank is stamped “10K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1960.
• Dimensions: cabochon, 13.7 x 11.4 mm; 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 1/8” at the back of the shank.
• Finger Size: 12-1/4.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 7.4 carats.

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold watch fob in the form of a pair of dolphin-like fish facing one another. The bodies are scaly and they have ornate flowing gills in the classical manner. The oval seal is engraved with a four-letter monogram and also T. E. Co. 1918. The fob retains its original reeded jump ring. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1918. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Weight: 4.7 grams. Size: 1-5/8” x 1”.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks from the era of Napoleon III. The navette-shaped faces are simply decorated with interlaced swirls. The faces are joined by chains. The cufflinks are stamped with French "tete de cheval" hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 3/4" x 5/16". Weight: 6.0 gr.

Circa mid-century, this pair of amethyst bar earrings are stunning in every way. While I've seen this design by Antonio in a ring, I've not seen another pair of earrings quite like these, and believe them to be quite rare. You can also wear each earring as a ring. They look amazing either way.

A fabulous example of Mexican modernist design, these huggie earrings are hinged on one side and fit snugly and securely, yet quite comfortably, on the ear...

A handsome pair of 18K white gold cufflinks, the faces set with octagonal mother-of-pearl plaques centered by small square blue sapphires. The mother-of-pearl surfaces are finely crosshatched to match the engraving of the gold at the corners. The faces are joined by chains. Marked "18Ct."

Origin: England, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/16" x 7/16". Weight: 7.0 grams

A nice pair of 14K yellow gold and ruby cufflinks, the round faces accented with engraved lines and a stippled finish that suggests a quilted design. The intersections of the engraved lines are set with round brilliant-cut rubies. The backs are marked "14K". We have seen matching cufflinks, set with rubies or with sapphires, stamped with Tiffany's retailer mark, so it's likely they were made by one of the higher-level Newark jewelers.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent...

Pre-eagle, circa 1930's-early 1940's, this necklace is a gorgeous statement piece.

It's entirely hand-wrought, with a center medallion measuring 4" wide. It's studded with tiny silver beading, and the oxidized background provides great depth and dimension.

Closed, wearable length is 15 3/4""...

This mid-century bracelet was produced by RTA. I've had a few RTA pieces over the years, all based on Antonio Pineda designs, all of exceptional quality and craftsmanship. This design is known as "birdcage", and it is absolutely stunning. It has everything going for it. Large and quite substantial, it weighs 126.5 grams. Wears beautifully and feels luxurious on the wrist. Measures a closed, wearable length of 7". Width is 1 9/16"...

From Spratling's first design period, hallmarks date this pin 1040-1944. This eagle serpent pin has superb repoussé silver work. Oxidized recesses and a highly detailed design really make this a standout piece. Measures 2 5/16" x 1 7/8". Weight is 26 grams. Signed and hallmarked with the WS Print Circle and Spratling Silver. Pin closes with a roller.

Dating 1930's-40's, this Fred Davis amethyst fish pin is, I believe, quite rare.

Measuring 2 3/4" x 2 1/8, with a weight of 47.6 grams, it's a very substantial piece. The amethyst stone has gorgeous grape hues, with natural inclusions and quartz marbling, measuring 1 3/8" x 1 1/8". The eye is a turquoise cabochon.

Exquisitely hand crafted and intricately detailed.

In fine vintage condition...

This early Mexican necklace is based on the Los Castillo dragon design, and is every bit as spectacular. Featuring superb craftsmanship, it's a true statement piece with attention to detail second to none. Closed, wearable length is 17", with each dragon having a height of 3 1/4". Weight is 73.5 grams. Hallmarked "Mexico Silver", this piece dates pre-1948. In excellent vintage condition.

A handsome pair of double-faced cufflinks set with turquoise in 14K yellow gold. The turquoise stones have fine color and nicely arranged matrix. The bar connectors are marked “14K” and have an unidentified maker’s mark “D”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 5/8” x 3/8”. Weight: 8.3 gr.

Hallmarks date this Matilde Poulat pin to the 1950's. Measuring 2 1/2" wide, 2 3/4" tall, this pin has two stately doves on each side, with a center teardrop amethyst, turquoise cabochons, and five dangles with coral. Pin closes with a roller. Weight is 18.1 grams. Signed and hallmarked Matl Mexico 925 M Reg 10592, along with the eagle assay 129. In excellent vintage condition.

Circa 1940's, this is a spectacular necklace from Marcel Boucher. It's hand-wrought and extremely substantial, weighing in at 158.2 grams, or over 5 troy ounces.

Boucher was born in Paris, and apprenticed with Cartier. He has a reputation of being perhaps the greatest costume jewelry designer. In the 1940's, he produced silver jewelry in Mexico under the name Parisina. In 1957, he opened his business in New York.

This is a truly luxurious necklace...

A pair of Taxco, Mexico Sterling Silver earrings with Tortoise Shell by William Spratling. The marks on these earrings date them to 1949-1956.

Measure 1" across. Marked on the back of one earring with the conjoined Script WS and 925.

Screw backs hold securely. Fine condition. Tortoise shell is a warm, honey brown color. Have some tarnish and minor scratches...

I have written in the past that Elna jewelry is more often than not very generous in proportions but this stunner of a bracelet goes above and beyond that! It is not just its sheer monumentality that impresses. It is also the classically "archaeological" character of the design itself which is expressed by the carved stone "mask" of an ancient Aztec Eagle warrior. Awesome in its military magnificence, the portrait is flanked by highly stylized butterfly (?) links with big cabochons set in bezels...

Circa 1960's - 1970's, this bracelet by Carmen Beckmann is a superb modernist piece. Produced with heavy gauge silver, it's a sleek slinky bracelet with nine tiger's eye stones...

A delightfully fun 14K yellow gold ring featuring a perky bunny rabbit standing on his hind legs. The ring was created from a vintage lapel pin with the addition of a 14K gold shank. The back of the rabbit is marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: rabbit, 7/8" x 1/2"
• Finger Size: 6 1/2
• Weight: 4.3 grams

This mid-century necklace from Los Castillo is a heavy and very substantial seldom seen design.

Thirty-eight modernist twisted panels drape perfectly upon the neck, conforming perfectly with a fluidity which compliments the wearer. The wide J-hook closure forms an almost seamless appearance.

Measures 15 3/8" end to end, with a 1" width. This will wear slightly smaller because of the width.

Weight is 130.4 grams.

Signed and hallmarked on the attached ta...

This mid-century bracelet from Margot is a large wide spectacular standout piece. Hand-wrought with superb repoussé silver work, this is certainly one of the most magnificent designs Margot ever created, and it's in absolutely pristine vintage condition. Measures a closed, wearable length of 6 3/4", with a width of 1 7/16". Weight is 80.4 grams. Closure is a tight and secure tongue in box, with original safety chain.

Circa mid-century, this Antonio Pineda bracelet has a sleek hand-wrought modernist design. It's a stunning bold piece which looks fabulous on the wrist. Composed of eleven V-shaped links which flare out on one side. Closure is a tight and secure tongue in box, complete with original safety chain. Please see matching necklace listed as well.

Measures a closed, wearable length of 6 1/2", and a width of 1 1/8".

Weighs 84 grams.

Signed and hallmarked with just the co...

A very nice Victorian 15K yellow gold ring featuring three beautifully colored spessartite garnets separated by rows of seed pearls. These garnets are not the typical murky reddish stones, but brighter orangey-red with nice fire. The gold surfaces are elegantly engraved in a floral motif that goes all the way around the shank. The ring was expertly sized at some point, keeping the hallmarks intact, and with matching engraving. Fully hallmarked for Birmingham, 1868.

Origin: England, 1868. ...

A lovely Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold floral pendant. The flowers are represented by small rose cut diamonds and a round brilliant ruby. The gold foliage is finely engraved in a naturalistic pattern. The brooch suspends a drop-shaped natural pearl with fine luster. The ruby, though small, has fine red color and excellent clarity. The pendant is suspended from its bale with a double chain. Fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all or...

Vintage 14K yellow gold chain with faceted amethyst beads, 5 larger beads (approximately 3/16 inch in diameter), 53 smaller beads (approximately 2/16 inch in diameter), 58 beads total. Total length is 25 inches, including clasp (see photos) Beautiful color. Not sure how old this is, beads look to be hand carved. Great condition.

A lovely pair of French Victorian 18K gold earrings set with sapphires and rose cut diamonds. Each earring features a prong-set blue sapphire surrounded by a cluster of ten rose cut diamonds, bead-set in an engraved background. The backs are finished with a hand-pierced gallery. The sapphires and diamonds have particularly good color and clarity for the period. This style of earrings was popular in the 1850's when popular hairstyles that covered the ears rendered large earrings irrelevant. Small...

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold honeymoon pin in the form of a crescent moon decorated with blue and white enamel forget-me-nots surrounding an enameled pansy set with a .025-ct round brilliant diamond. The pansy is the more uncommon type where the petals have elegantly-chased decoration. In Victorian flower language, both the pansy and the forget-me-not symbolized “think of me.” When flowers and crescents were used together, the symbolism was “honeymoon,” and these were popular gif...

A striking 14K yellow gold ring, the medallion depicting a yachting scene in engine-turned engraving of extraordinary quality. The scene depicts a yacht in the foreground with a more distant boat in the background. The design is completed with waves, seagulls and a lighthouse atop a rocky cliff. Originally an Edwardian blazer button, our jeweler added a 14K gold shank to make a wonderful seafaring ring. The back is stamped "14K" and has an unidetified American maker's mark.

• America, ca. 1...

A nice quality and heavy 18K gold watch key enhanced with black enamel and seed pearls suspending a pair of foxtail chain tassels and a dog clip clasp. This was originally the cross bar and fob attachments for a Victorian watch chain. With the entire assembly attached to a necklace using the existing jump ring, the key and and tassels would make stunning "charms" and another charm of your choice could be attached to the dog clip. This last charm could be changed up depending on your mood! Stampe...

A heavy pair of mid-century 14K yellow gold dome cufflinks in a Florentine finish, each centering a gypsy-set round brilliant cut citrine. The gemstones are medium slightly brownish orangy-yellow in color and constrast nicely with the surrounding gold. The toggle backs are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” diameter; 3/8” deep. Weight: 14.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.0 carats.

A very pretty 14K gold and pink sapphire solitaire ring. The oval brilliant-cut sapphire has a nice raspberry pink color that shows well in the high cathedral-style setting. The sapphire has very good clarity and does not show indications of any heat or other treatment. The shank is enhanced with white gold floral elements on either side of the sapphire. The interior of the shank is marked “14K”. The ring would be perfect as a colored stone engagement ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. ...

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks worked in the Etruscan Revival style with applied bead rosettes. The spherical faces are attached by chains to baton backs, also decorated with applied bead rosettes. The gold surfaces have a slight matte finish. The cufflinks are hallmarked with the French “hibou” import mark.

Ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, each sphere has an intentional vent hole and one sphere has a second small hole original to the casting; neither the vents nor the ext...

A very rare piece of sterling silver Arts and Crafts jewelry by the San Francisco Metalsmith, Harry Dixon. This unusual ring, in a size 6 1/2 depicts a fish swimming in waves. Very three dimensional. Appears to have a gold colored eye, perhaps 14K gold overlay. Marked with a stamped Harry Dixon San Francisco and a scratched in 925. Has some minor surface scratches. Fine quality.

I have had full-sized Mexican silver and stone "idol" pendant necklace before but none like this exquisite example I am presenting here. Beautifully carved and visually imposing, the pendant's onyx Aztec / Maya male figure is shown in what I believe might be a supplication position. Cross-hatched bracelets carved into the stone hug his wrists while a silver necklace and an impressive headdress are the only other adornments covering his naked body. Suspended on an entirely hand-wrought sterling c...

An antique green jadeite Pi pendant suspended on a knotted silk cord embroidered with seed pearls and strung with a jadeite bead, finished with a contemporary 14K yellow gold bail. In traditional Chinese belief, the Pi (sometimes spelled "Bi") represents the heavenly deities and the central hole allows souls to access Heaven. The Pi has medium-light green color with moderate mottling, medium grain and medium translucency. The jade bead is darker color and is more opaque. The pendant was salv...

A fabulous Art Nouveau 14K gold ring set with a round brilliant cut peridot flanked by seed pearls. The gem is set in a distinctly Gothic revival quatrefoil design. The gold surfaces are hand-finished and have a matte surface typical of Art Nouveau jewels. The peridot has excellent color and clarity that contrasts beautifully with the bright white pearls. Converted from a stickpin, the piece is now a gorgeous ring. The crown retains the original maker's mark for Shanley Jewelry Company, of the l...

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold and crystal “porte-photo” (photo locket), the gold rim accented with small blue sapphires. The bail is attached to a screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand for access to the inside of the locket. Porte-photos were often used to display a “public” photo one side and a more private keepsake on the other. They’re usually very simple; a design of this type is uncommon. These pieces are becoming increasingly difficult to find. The bai...

A perfect way to wear a little of the Gilded Age right on your own hand! The lovely navette shape is slimming on the finger and can even be worn on the middle or index finger. The ring has a delicate appearance but enough length to make a statement. The warm glow of medium-toned center ruby contrasts beautifully with the sparkle of the four diamonds (I/SI2) surrounding it. The yelow gold shake is set with a four additional rubies flanking the navette. The interior of the shank is marked "14...

A very fine 14K gold stickpin in the form of a horse's head by Sloan & Co. They eye is set with a small ruby cabochon. The horse is entirely three-dimensional, worked with as much detail on the back as the front. The stick pin can easily be converted to a pendant or ring. The base of the neck is stamped with Sloan's 14K gold mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: head, 7/8" 5/8"; overall length, 2 15/16".
• Weight: 3.1 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

Danish Modern 14k gold ring by Jens Asby, Denmark, 1960s. The looped design of the setting perfectly highlights the glowing reticulated quartz sphere. The stone is an undrilled sagenitic quartz, which is clear with black inclusions. The ring is marked with the Jens Asby hallmark, "585 CFH DENMARK HANDMADE". Very good vintage condition.

The sphere measures 10mm. The ring measures 3/8" north to south, sits 1/2" up off the finger and weighs 6.3grams. It is a size 7 and can be sized. It w...

A lovely double-sided 18K gold and crystal locket, the gold rim elegantly decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVA style. The round faceted crystal covers are suspended in a diamond-shaped open frame. The locket is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the locket's contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair, a ...

A very striking pair of vintage sterling and aventurine handmade, one-of-a-kind earrings by Israeli Modernist designer Rachel Gera. Hanging 2 3/4" long and 1" wide, they have clip backs and weigh 29grams total. They are in fine original condition and signed as shown. Great green stones and a very fun design. Born in 1936, Rachel Gera passed away in February of this year. Her creations were all very unique.

A lovely two-sided 18K gold and crystal photo locket by Parisian jeweler Charles Garnier. This style of locket became popular in the latter half of the 19th century and was revived from time to time up through the Edwardian era. NOTE: The pale green interior is used only for photographic purposes. The lockets were worn with a photograph showing from each side or with a single photograph on the front and a memento of some sort (a lock of hair or a pressed flower) on the back. The crystals ar...

A classic pair of Art Deco chrysoprase cufflinks set in 14K yellow gold. The chrysoprase have very good yellowish-green color and are cut in high-domed cabochons. The faces are connected by chains. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 3/8” diameter. Weight: 7.1 gr.

Exceedingly difficult to find (I will not say "almost impossible" because I am an optimist at heart!) these Mexican Deco silver repousse hinged bracelets with rows of stone cabochons come in all widths and material combinations. In my experience, the ones with turquoise tend to be the most sought after but amethyst is also popular and I have had examples with black onyx and even colored glass before. The specific marriage of semi-spheres and cabochons probably originated in Mexico City and Fred ...

A nice smaller-size pyramidal Etruscan style 18K yellow gold fob charm set with carnelian and dyed green chalcedony cabochons. The gold surfaces are finely decorated with beading and wirework in the antique Etruscan manner. The original jump ring is stamped with Italian 18K hallmarks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1” long (excluding jump ring) x 3/4” Weight: 6.5 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In ...

This fabulous vintage Antonio Pineda Bracelet has a bold modernist design with links of thick silver in a stylized leaf design. It measures 6 5/8" long by 1" wide and weighs 82.5 grams. Hallmarked with the Antonio Taxco Crown mark, 970, Hecho en Mexico, eagle 17 and the design number ZZ609 - this number shows that the bracelet was made in Antonio's workshop. It is in good condition with only light age related wear and tarnish. The button topped clasp is secure and there is an attached safety cha...

A wonderful Victorian 14K gold comet pin worked in the Etruscan Revival style. The pin is decorated with ornate granulated rosettes and ropetwist motifs surrounding a single square Persian turquoise cabochon set at the comet's nucleus. The gold surfaces are bloomed for a soft sheen. Tested and guaranteed 14K.The pin was likely produced to commemorate the appearance of Halley's Comet in 1835.

• Origin: America, ca. 1835.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" long.
• Weight: 4.4 grams.
• Con...

A lovely pair of 14K yellow gold earrings in a swirling foliate pattern set with pearls. The pearls, ranging 4.5-6mm, have cream body color with rose overtones. The surfaces are smooth and have fine luster. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1” x 7/8”. Weight: 8.0 gr.

American Modernist Jewelry Brass Horse Brooch

Peggy Miller

c.1950s

Excellent condition

3" x 1 3/4"

A very fine pair of late Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces featuring almandite garnets. The faces are decorated with a foliate border. The gold surface has the semi-matte Russian finish sometimes found on better jewels of the period. The beanback connectors are marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 5.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.6 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jew...

A lovely conversion ring featuring a a guilloche enamel plaque centered with a blue sapphire cabochon. The pale blue translucent enamel is accented with engine-turned engraving and is surrounded by a border of opaque white enamel with gold accents. The ring was created from an Edwardian stickpin with the addition of a 14K gold shank (the front is 18K).

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: crown, 1/2" diameter
• Finger Size: 6-3/4...

One of my absolute favorite designs by Gerardo Lopez, this silver and copper "mask" necklace I have sold a few times during my career as a vintage Mexican jewelry dealer and I never tire of it! There is so much to attract the eye here and every time you look at it, you spot something new and exciting. Meticulously cut ornate sterling "frames", oxidized and embellished with overlay, surround the highly sculptural copper "masks". Lopez's decision to flank the central "portrait" with smaller versio...

Impressive takes on a whole different meaning when the work of the Los Castillo taller is concerned - and the wide, exuberantly vibrant floral and foliate repousse bracelet I am presenting here proves the point. Continuing in the 1940s’ spirit that called for designs derived from nature in jewelry production, this piece is a celebration of everything verdant - organic in an unexpected way, full of movement, reaching for the sunlight, twisting and twirling with the wind. A bracelet worthy of th...

In the years I have been buying and selling vintage Mexican silver jewelry I have seen many "mask" pieces - this is, after all, one of the "pillars" in the genre's design index and I am also very partial to it and always on the look out for good examples. I have to also admit that seeing jewelry of a certain kind over and over again makes one a little more blasé and hence, more difficult to impress. Yet impressed I was with this astounding combination pin / pendant I am presenting here. Monumen...

Classic and classy this fab Los Castillo necklace will astonish you with the way it feels and looks once you have it on. An iconic Taxco piece with its cascading festoon links and its playful teardrop repousse dangles the design draws from Mexico's long Spanish Colonial tradition. Much heavier than the unsigned imitations that surface from time to time, it wears like a dream and has a very strong visual effect. And if you need some extra length, it can easily accept a simple sterling extension t...

One of the Mexican designs inspired by Far Eastern cultures, the koi fish are a signature creation of Margot de Taxco and the Los Castillo yet its popularity prompted many of their "less celebrated" or anonymous contemporary maestros to come up with their own versions of it. And thankfully so because one can now find a beautiful example by a talented maker without having to break the bank - or at least not in a truly dramatic way! The all-silver necklace at hand is just such a welcome find. Very...

Circa mid-century, here is one of Margot's early and most beloved designs. Hand-wrought with world class repoussé silver work, it's crazy killer gorgeous. Will not fail to be noticed. Measures a closed, wearable length of 6 3/4", with a width of 1 7/16". Weight is 79.6 grams. Closure is a tight and secure tongue in box, with original safety chain. In excellent vintage condition.